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Insider's New York

27. Learn to tango under the stars
"Tango is now very popular in New York," says business executive Kiku Loomis. "Much of the tango world takes place after work and into the wee hours of the morning." Out-of-towners are more than welcome. "It's a diverse crowd," says Loomis, "and incredibly international. You'd meet New Yorkers you'd never meet anywhere else. We always have a beginner class at the start, and our events take place in very romantic backdrops like the South Street Seaport or Central Park or up in a loft in the Meatpacking District. Come as a couple or come by yourself and meet people. The tango is basically walking, and once you get the bug it's infectious. We're very friendly. Come see."
Triangulo Studio, 675 Hudson St.; +1 212 633 6445.

28. Shop in SoHo
"SoHo is known for shopping," says resident Scott Krause. "I like the quieter parts, like the Housing Works Used Book Cafe [126 Crosby St.; +1 212 334 3324], an amazingly good bookstore. You can just walk in, grab a book, a seat, and a latte, and let the afternoon melt away." Shoppers can easily exorcise their buy-it-now demons in SoHo—check out the flashy trinkets and ultra-replicated artwork from the friendly, non-pushy street vendors on West Broadway. Check your e-mail at the Apple Store (103 Prince St.; +1 212 226 3126), and admire Rem
Koolhaas's architecture and the latest clothes at the Prada store (575 Broadway; +1 212 334 8888). Krause adds: "Two of my favorite independent movie theaters are in SoHo—the Film Forum [209 W. Houston St.; +1 212 727 8110] and Angelika [18 W. Houston St.; +1 212 995 2000]. Both are great for catching thought-provoking films."

29. Hike up to Harlem
"The Harlem Renaissance of the 1920s was a great flowering of arts, of ideas, of hope for African-Americans," says Campbell Kennedy, who works for Big Onion, a company that hires degreed historians to conduct tours of New York. "Harlem's going through another one now. You can see the old and the new renaissance just by walking around. Between 130th and 140th Streets the row
houses are as elegant as anything on the Upper East Side. And in some cases even more so, because they have so much detail. Visit the Van Brunt model houses on 136th Street and the St. Nicholas Historic District on 138th and 139th Streets. I think one of New York's most beautiful views is from City College's Shepherd's Hall on 139th and Frederick Douglass."

30. Dance in the dark at Lincoln Center
"For me the most special thing about Lincoln Center is after a performance when the lights go out at New York State Theater," says Damian Woetzel, principal dancer for the New York City Ballet and guest dancer for the Metropolitan Opera. "The stagehands turn off all the lights but leave on one big stand light that illuminates the stage. I go and rehearse by myself, and the ghosts are with me. Occasionally a tour will come through, and they will see me dancing." Tours at Lincoln Center: +1 212 875 5350.

31. Ferry the family to terrific views
"Until now New York never had a very scenic waterfront, but things are coming around," says Randall Kane, a partner with Acquis, a downtown consulting firm. "You can get a great view of Manhattan by taking the Staten Island Ferry. It used to cost a quarter, but now it's free. The ferry sails right past the Statue of Liberty." You can also take a ferry across the Hudson to Liberty State Park in New Jersey for a fine view of downtown; +1 201 985 8000.


The New Thing: Brooklyn


A borough reborn, Brooklyn bustles with a new energy. Once the country's fourth-largest city, Brooklyn ceded its independence when New York City annexed it in 1898. It then played back-up singer to glitzy superstar Manhattan throughout the 20th century. Now, after two decades of steady renewal, the hometown
of Barry Manilow, Rudy Giuliani, and Neil Simon is ready to rock on its own. Families are moving to the communities of Park Slope and Cobble Hill, drawn by the convenient commutes as much as by the graceful brownstone town houses. Meanwhile the young flock to Williamsburg for its clubs and galleries.

Visit the Brooklyn Tourism & Visitors Center (Borough Hall, 209 Joralemon St.; +1 718 802 3846), where volunteers give information in Brooklyn-ese, the quintessential New Yawk accent.

Walk along the Promenade in Brooklyn Heights to take in its "hello gorgeous" views of lower Manhattan. Just below the Heights: a gentrified neighborhood called DUMBO (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass). The hood with the whimsical name is filled with old warehouses, retail outlets, and great views.

Hungry? Visit Bubby's (1 Main St.; +1 718 222 0666). It's a good place to fuel up on homemade pie, and if you're here before 7 p.m., visit Jacques Torres Chocolate (66 Water St.; +1 718 875 9772) for some chocolate-covered cornflakes. Saunter down Atlantic Avenue, a 100-year-old Middle Eastern commercial area, to sample the spinach and meat pies and baklava at Damascus Breads and Pastry (195 Atlantic Ave; +1 718 625 7070). Buy spices, teas, and nuts at Sahadi's (187-189 Atlantic Ave; +1 718 624 4550).



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