from April 2005
|
features_global.html
|
 |
 |
Insider's Tuscany
|
12. Dress with the very best
"I draw inspiration from my travels, using a fabric from Uzbekistan or Ghana, for instance, to create a mixture of memories and sensations," explains Maria Paola Pedetta, the young Florentine stylist whose collections are coveted by Tuscany's most fashionable women. "But I never lose touch with traditional Tuscan style, which is exemplified by the moleskin hunting jackets of Arte e Moda inCastagneto Carducci [+39 056 576 3694] as well as the classic overcoats and sumptuous woolens of Tessilnova—not far from Arezzo."
13. Eat fast food Florentine style
"Lampredotto is the hot dog of Florence," says resident Jennifer Schwartz, who runs food tours here (Food Lover's Tours of Florence, +39 034 776 68262). "And every Florentine has a favorite stand for these savory tripe sandwiches. There's always a crowd at Nerbone in the Mercato Centrale [Piazza del Mercato Centrale, +39 055 219 949], but my favorite bite comes from La Civiltà della Trippa, right near my house—their beef and green sauce is superior."
14. Walk hallowed ground
"The Via di San Leonardo is one of my favorite places to stroll," says the Baron Amerigo Franchetti of Florence's magnificent Torre di Bellosguardo hotel. "The road winds through olive groves and past silent villas, where artists like Tchaikovsky lived and found inspiration. At the Belvedere fortress, I turn aside to enjoy the view of Brunelleschi's Dome, then descend past the formidable city walls to Ponte Vecchio."
15. See silks in the making
In Florence, within the walled garden of the Antico Setificio Fiorentino, skilled craftswomen handweave silks and linens on 18th-century looms. "It's a poetic place; being here is like stepping straight into the past," says veteran journalist Filippo Cicognani. "The iridescent ermisini, damasks, and other lush fabrics made and sold here are the same kind you see in frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli, Masaccio, and other Renaissance masters." But this is no museum—the creativity never stops.
16. Follow your ears
"The Maggio Musicale Fiorentino is Italy's answer to Salzburg, and deservedly famous," says Jane Camilloni, events organizer and former concert pianist, for whose ancestors Brahms, Bartok, and Elgar all composed pieces. "But there are lesser known events with first-rate performers and passionate local followings, like the Cantiere Internazionale d'Arte in Montepulciano for contemporary music, Incontri in Terra di Siena for chamber music performed outside, and the Opera Barga."
17. Submit to nature—and nurture
Populonia, in South Tuscany, has it all: impressive Etruscan ruins, a medieval castle, and a perfect crescent bay ringed by powdery white sand beaches. "This is the quintessential Mediterranean," says Sara Vitali, an expert in communications from a distinguished artistic family. "Here the nature and old stone of inland Tuscany meet the umbrella pines and the breathtaking vistas of the coast. It's a place out of time, perfect for reflection."
18. Rise above it all
"Seen from a half mile up, as the pink dawn light turns to gold, my native Tuscany appears in a whole new way," says sound engineer Sergio Luzzi of his recent balloon flight near Siena. "You start making connections—how the Roman road system still shapes modern roads, how two villages very distant in your mind are actually quite close. And everything happens so slowly. It's quite magical." The best pilot is Robert Etherington, a Briton who has toured Tuscany by balloon for 15 years.
19. Meet your inner carnivore
Tuscans drive miles and miles for a steak from Dario Cecchini (Antica Macelleria Cecchini, Via XX Luglio 11, Panzano in Chianti; +39 055 852 020), the legendary butcher of Chianti. "He encapsulates the Tuscan approach to meat better than anyone else," says New Yorker editor Bill Buford, who worked for six months in Cecchini's butcher shop while researching his forthcoming book, Heat. Cecchini also embodies Tuscan hospitality, treating his visitors to local songs, proverbs, Dante from memory, and a banquet table groaning with complimentary meaty delicacies and Chianti. "Everyone who walks through the door is my guest," says Cecchini. And it's true.
20. Tour Tuscany's Old West
"The Maremma is Tuscany as it` once was," says Albiera Antinori of the esteemed winemaking family, which has an estate in Bolgheri, the heart of the region. "The pace of life is slower here, with broad vistas, wide open spaces, and an atmosphere of wild nature that's become rare elsewhere." Maremma is great on foot, bike or by car, but the most authentic way to see it is on horseback. At Alberese, in the unspoiled Uccellina nature reserve, you can ride with the butteri—the fabled local cowboys.
21. Explore an Italian icon
The Vespa, which rivals the Leaning Tower and Luciano Pavarotti as a symbol of Italy, was born in 1946 in Pontedera, where the fascinating Museo Piaggio traces its evolution. "After the grim years of war and fascism, the Vespa was a breath of fresh air," says Vespista Tommaso Fanfani. "It remains a living symbol of freedom and adventure, the triumph of Italian style."
|
