in November/December 2005
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Insiders Miami
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3. Ride herd on sea cows
"There are several good places in Miami to see manatees, our large aquatic mammals," says Gary Bremen, a ranger at Biscayne National Park (+1 305 230 7275). "Surprisingly, you're most likely to see manatees from shore and along the harbors and canals. One good place is the intersection of Old Cutler Road, Sunset, and Douglas Roads in Coral Gables. Walk out on the bridges spanning the canals. Other good spots to see manatees are from the Black Point Marina and, inside the park, from the Dante Fascell Visitor Center. Rent a canoe and paddle around. You might also see the rare American crocodile." He adds: "Ours is the largest marine park in the entire National Park system."
4. Shop Lincoln Road
"When my store opened 13 years ago, Lincoln Road was deserted; now it's Miami Beach's shopping mecca," says Rick Hanley, owner of Pink Palm Company (737 Lincoln Rd.; +1 305 538 8373). "It's a pedestrian mall with outdoor cafés, fountains, and street sculptures. Try Books & Books [933 Lincoln Rd.; +1 305 532 3222] for maps and titles on Miami and Cuba. For food, there's Cafeteria [546 Lincoln Rd.; +1 305 672 3663], big with the fashion crowd. Art Center South Florida [800 Lincoln Rd.; +1 305 674 8278] is an artists co-op. Agora [640 Lincoln Rd.; +1 305 673 5589] sells Balinese and other Asian furniture. Lincoln Theatre [541 Lincoln Rd.; +1 305 673 3331] is a restored movie house that's home to the New World Symphony."
5. Have a slice of history with a schmear
"Don't miss the Jewish Museum of Florida [301 Washington Ave., Miami Beach; +1 305 672 5044]," says Myra Farr, a Miami Beach resident since 1933. "It shows the story of Jews in the state in photographs and exhibits. A recent exhibit was titled 'Shalom Y'all,' a history of Southern Jewish families. Afterward, eat at Jerry's Famous Deli [1450 Collins Ave., Miami Beach; +1 305 532 8030], where you can get a good corned beef sandwich. Does it come with a pickle? Of course. And then there's the Bay Harbor Deli [1067 95th St., Bay Harbor Is.; +1 305 865 5051]. It's been bought by a nice Central American young man. Have the pea soup and a brisket sandwich—it's homemade and delicious."
6. Squeeze into the Palacio de los Jugos
"The Palace of Juices is a bustling, colorful open-air food market [5721 W. Flagler St.; +1 305 264 4557]," says Miami resident Cindy Castelblanco. "It's full of tin roofs, benches, and old men. You'll find all sorts of Cuban fruit juices and stands piled high with fruits. Buy some chicharrones—dried pork rinds, or lechón—roasted piglet served with a garlicky, lemony seasoning. Order a coco frío, and the vendor will crack the coconut with a machete and serve it with a straw to suck out the milk."
7. Pig out at the Fruit and Spice Park
This tropical plantation, with 35 acres of fruits and spices from all over the world, has two rules: You can eat whatever falls on the ground, and the fruit must leave in your stomach. "We grow 70 kinds of bananas and 125 different kinds of mangos: orange, green, purple, red, and yellow," says park director Chris Rollins. Take the tram tour to learn the history and heritage of fruits and their many varieties (24801 S.W. 187th Ave., Homestead; +1 305 247 5727).
8. Hang out in the Grove
"Coconut Grove is a hot local scene on Thursdays, which is college night," says Talita Real, a bartender at Green Street (3468 Main Hwy.; +1 305 444 0244). "It's where locals come to grab a meal, go barhopping, or meet up with friends before or after they party. The bars are fun. Mr. Moe's [3131 Commodore Plaza; +1 305 442 1114] is open until 5 a.m. Here at Green's you can sit outside on the couches, have a drink, and watch everyone crowd on the streets at night. This isn't South Beach, where many locals don't go. These are neighborhood people, and this is the real Miami."
9. Find an undiscovered beach walk
"Many visitors don't realize that Miami Beach's paved walkway, running between the beach and the hotels, and stretching from 5th Street to the end of Collins Park at 22nd Street, actually keeps going," says Rich Beaubien, co-author of Discovering South Beach Deco. "North from there is a beachside walkway that continues all the way to 45th," he says. "Hotels have cafés and raw bars that cater to those who have discovered this little-known beach walk."
10. Be fond of fronds
"People are amazed to discover we have 600 species of palm trees at Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden [10901 Old Cutler Rd.; +1 305 667 1651]," says staff biologist Scott Zona. Many grow in the Palmetum or in a conservatory that protects delicate species from cold weather. The grounds also contain a rain forest garden. Zona recommends the 40-minute guided tram tour to start out. "Then explore on your own," he says. "You'll find hidden and beautiful plants, palms, and orchids that make this garden special. I've been coming to this garden since I was a little boy, and I still find things that astonish me."
11. Walk through time
"We tell the human history of South Florida: the Everglades, the hurricanes, the 1920s boom, tourism, and how people built Miami," says Frank Schena, a teacher at the Historical Museum of Southern Florida (101 W. Flagler St.; +1 305 375 1492). "The exhibits are arranged in chronological order, so you can walk through 10,000 years of human experience in the region." On the lower floor are special exhibits, covering, for example, the history of calypso music. "You'll always learn something of interest," Schena says. "Who knew, for instance, that writer Maya Angelou was a calypso dancer in 1950s movies?"
12. Don't be drab, be fab
"I'm a grandmother, but in Miami grandmothers dress like Donatella Versace," says Miami Beach scene queen Merle Weiss. "You want stores? There's Rene Ruiz Couture [262 Miracle Mile, Coral Gables; +1 305 445 2352] for evening wear; the Guayabera Store, etc. [270 Miracle Mile, Coral Gables; +1 305 441 9891] for Cuban, Filipino, and Mexican shirts in many styles and fabrics; for fun there's Miami Twice [6562 S.W. 40th St.; +1 305 666 0127], a vintage department store with clothing and objects from the last century; on Calle Ocho there's Little Havana to Go [1442 S.W. Eighth St.; +1 305 857 9720] for all things Cuban; for Haitian, Cuban, and Guatemalan art, visit the Bernice Steinbaum Gallery [3550 N. Miami Ave.; +1 305 573 2700]. The garment district sells fun clothing like fishnet stockings and purple wigs."
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