in November/December 2005
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Insiders Miami
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13. Hear a ghost story
"Every Thursday night at seven a storyteller appears in the lobby of the Biltmore Hotel [1200 Anastasia Ave., Coral Gables; 800 727 1926 (U.S. and Canada)]," says Debbie Ruiseco of Miami. "People pull up chairs near the big fireplace to listen to stories about the history of the hotel and its ghosts, like gangster Fatty Walsh, who murdered somebody on the 13th floor. The storytelling is casual, free, and open to the public. A lot of people who come to the event share their own stories about the Biltmore, a hotel Miamians are fond of."
14. A taste of Cuba
"Come to Little Havana's Calle Ocho [Eighth Street] to taste Cuban food and also Nicaraguan, Honduran, and Salvadoran," says architect José Casanova, Jr. "The last Friday of each month, Viernes Culturales, is an outdoor festival of music and art [Eighth St., between 14th and 17th; +1 305 644 9555]. Take walking tours, watch dancers, and see art displays on sidewalks."
15. Relive the '50s
"MiMo, or 'Miami Modern,' is a term for the architectural styles that took over from art deco in the 1950s," says urban planner Randall Robinson, author of MiMo: Miami Modern Revealed. "It's characterized by exuberance and whimsical touches. The best place to get a sense of it is in the lobby of the Deauville [6701 Collins Ave.; +1 305 865 8511], a hotel that's as handsome as a 1957 Cadillac. It's where the Beatles stayed when they visited Miami Beach in 1964. It's a great part of our history." The Deauville is part of a self-guided walking tour; get free maps at the North Beach Development Corporation (210 71st St., Suite 310, Miami Beach; +1 305 865 4147).
16. Take a classic dip
"The Venetian Pool [2701 De Soto Blvd., Coral Gables; +1 305 460 5306] was originally a rock quarry where our founder George Merrick extracted limestone to build Coral Gables's first houses," says Coral Gables Mayor Don Slesnick. "Merrick decided he couldn't have a rock quarry in the middle of his city, so he turned it into a pool. It's been a municipal pool ever since. Come for a swim. After 80 years, we still drain the pool every night in summer, and nowadays we also chlorinate the water."
17. Visit Vizcaya
"One of Miami's greatest attractions is Vizcaya Museum and Gardens [3251 S. Miami Ave.; +1 305 250 9133], the estate of industrialist James Deering," says John Hemingway, who grew up in Coconut Grove and San Marino Island and is the grandson of the famous writer. "Vizcaya is an Italian Renaissance mansion with glorious gardens. Another suggestion for families with children: Go wading in the saltwater grass of Matheson Hammock, a park on Biscayne Bay [9610 Old Cutler Rd.; +1 305 665 5475]. We would always bring a net to catch crabs." Hemingway adds: "My grandfather used to come to Miami frequently."
18. Tour the zoo after dark
"With our tropical setting, the Miami Metro Zoo [12400 S.W. 152nd St.; +1 305 251 0400] is a different place at night," says keeper Mauricio Sadlarriaga. "The animals make all sorts of noises. The lions, especially, have loud roars. Kids can watch as we go behind the scenes to feed Dusty, the sloth bear; Galápagos tortoises; and Johnny, the Indian rhino. The Wild Night tours usually start with a pizza dinner and last two hours. They run from October to March, but we can do special night tours at any time. The zoo also has Zoo-Ins, where kids can come and sleep over."
19. Snorkel in the city
"To snorkel in Miami, kayak [with a tour group] out to a protected mangrove forest off Key Biscayne," says Miamian Victoria Arias. "You don't need your own equipment, and the guides are great [different locations; 365-3018]. It's so inspiring—you'll see fossilized reef, conchs, stingrays, and amazing rock formations in a world ten minutes from high-rises and traffic."
20. See the "art" in artifacts
"The Wolfsonian [1001 Washington Ave.; +1 305 531 1001] displays the art of everyday life—such as radios, travel brochures, political propaganda posters, and memorabilia from the World's Fair," says museum director Cathy Leff. "It's ephemeral. These items were never intended to last, let alone be displayed in a museum, but we have them. The local favorite is the wrestler in the museum's lobby, a sculpture from the 1932 Los Angeles Olympics. One of my own favorites is the Magic Chef stove from 1935; it's just fabulous. Visit us. You will see yourself and your own culture shown in a way that other places can't."
21. Chat up Miami lifeguards
"We have 96 full- and part-time lifeguards on Miami Beach, with 42 on duty at any one time," says Division Chief of Ocean Rescue Vincent Andreano, sometimes referred to as Miami Beach's top lifeguard. "If you have any questions, talk to us on the lifeguard towers—we're always there for that purpose [+1 305 673 7730]. The best time to be on the beach is morning, when it's cooler and less crowded."
22. Discover Coral Gables
"Coral Gables is a version of the City Beautiful movement that was actually realized in the 1920s," says University of Miami architecture professor Aristides Millas, who co-wrote Coral Gables, Miami Riviera: An Architectural Guide. "Developer George Merrick's architects built romantic visions of Spanish and Italian castles and homes. These 'villages' they created still exist in the city's Riviera section. You'll find houses in many styles—Chinese, Dutch South African, French Normandy, French Country, and Italian. Our guidebook will show you the streets where the villages are and the significant buildings."
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