from November/December 2007
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Estonia Photo Gallery
Photographs by Sisse Brimberg and Cotton Coulson/Keenpress
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 n Tallinn's Old Town, a waitress serves patrons at the medieval restaurant Olde Hansa. Founded by Danes in 1219, the historic heart of Tallinn is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. "For centuries, the stout towers and thick walls that still encase most of Old Town protected the merchants of the Hanseatic League, a medieval network of European cities," says Vesilind, explaining that Estonians "have endured occupiers for the past 800 years—Teutonic knights, Danish and Swedish conquerors, Russian tsars, German Nazis, as well as the Red Army. All left their grand designs and detritus behind. Old Tallinn looked much the same in 1944, when my family and I fled Estonia as the Red Army of the Soviet Union arrived to occupy it for the following 48 years."
Read more about Estonia in "Up from the Ruins" in the November/December 2007 issue of National Geographic Traveler.
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