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“It may be the highest point on the continent of Africa, but I should just breeze to the top of Mount Kilimanjaro,” I thought as I embarked on my latest filming expedition for National Geographic EXPLORER.
It’s a long, steep hike to the “roof of Africa” at 19,340 feet (5,895 meters). Not a major technical climb, but above 14,000 feet (4,267 meters) headaches, nausea, and insomnia are common, and more serious problems can include swelling of the lungs or brain.
Our mantra was the Swahili word “pole,” or “slowly,” and it’s the only way to move at high altitudes. Step...pause...step...pause....
At first, Kilimanjaro seemed more inspiring than intimidating. Then we decided to push higher, faster. It meant less time for acclimating. The benefit: a shorter climb to the summit on the last day. The downside: an increased chance of altitude sickness.
By the time we reached Arrow Glacier, we were inhaling huge chunks of air, greedily trying to get more oxygen out of the thinning atmosphere.
Still, that night at camp, looking down on the clouds and a spectacular sunset, everyone was charged. We felt great. We had beaten the odds.
This sensation lasted all of five minutes.
First the headaches hit. Next we got chilled. Then the nausea arrived in time for dinner. There was little sleep that night.
We pushed on—to the most challenging part of the climb. The trail snaked up over a treacherous slope of loose rock that was prone to avalanches. I’d heard a couple of small ones during my sleepless night.
The clouds rolled in mid-morning and we couldn’t see where we’d been or where we were going. One porter fell. He was not seriously injured, but the duffle he was carrying tumbled 2,000 feet (610 meters) down the side of the mountain. It held all but one of our cooking pots.
That night we were all cold, hungry, and sick. But, come morning, seeing the peak only 840 feet (256 meters) above us had us eager for the final assault on Kilimanjaro. Calling out “pole, pole,” we made our way to the summit, Uhura Peak, at 19,340 feet (5,895 meters), the highest point on the continent of Africa.
Looking out across the peaks, glaciers, and clouds below us, I was swept up in euphoria. It had not been easy, but we had made it to the roof of Africa. We still had a knee-pounding climb back down, but we were powered by our feeling of accomplishment!
I wish everyone could climb Mount Kilimanjaro. Even if you’ll never get there in person, you can see my climb on EXPLORER in the spring.
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