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Aruba Dutch island transformed from sandbar to fun-loving destination in only two decades. Gracious people. Duty-free shops, glittering nightlife. South coast with big resorts on five mile (8 kilometer) powdery beach, in contrast to moonscape north with pounding surf. $$-$$$$. Papiamento (Creole), English, Spanish, Dutch. Tip: Picnic at Andicouri, gorgeous cove.