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Puerto Rico American tempo, Latin heart; big-city action, tranquil countryside. Good vacation packages. Historic Old San Juan alive with shops, museums, cafés. Many new restaurants, some great. Diverse scenery. Caves, rain forest hiking, phosphorescent bays. Beautiful panoramic route winds through forested mountain region. Major air, cruise hub. Modest inns to pricey resorts. $-$$$$. Spanish, English. Tip: Terrific salsa music at bars in San Juan hotel lobbies, early evenings.