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    Chefs Blake Meier and Gavin Kaysen at Fika, inside the American Swedish Institute in Minnesota
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    Nordic fare in Minneapolis blurs lines between food and art

    At FIKA, Chef Blake Meier serves artfully composed food that changes with the seasons and connects Minnesotans with their Scandinavian past.

    Outside the the American Swedish Institute, Minneapolis-based chefs, Blake Meier (left) and Gavin Kaysen (right), discuss the new-school Scandinavian-inspired food that is sweeping across the state.

    Photograph by Stephanie Rau
    ByJames Norton
    Photographs byStephanie Rau
    • 10 min read
    This is Paid Content. The editorial staff of National Geographic was not involved in the preparation or production of this content.

    Controversial runestones notwithstanding, it’s generally accepted that Nordic settlers began populating Minnesota in the 19th Century, and their cultural presence still lends this snowy state much of its flavor. Finns immigrated to take advantage of logging and mining opportunities in the rugged north, and Minneapolis-St. Paul is chockablock with the descendants of Danes, Swedes, and Norwegians. From Minnesota’s Vikings NFL franchise to cardamom-infused baked goods to Scandinavian bric-a-brac at every gift shop and truck stop, you can feel the influence of northern Europe in most of the state’s cities and towns.

    One place it’s rarely felt: Minnesota restaurants. Traditionally, Scandinavian food is home-cooked food in Minnesota, and there is therefore a razor-thin collection of older restaurants and shops offering a taste of Sweden or Norway. Swedish meatballs and lefse were things you ate at home; dining out was for steak and potatoes, Italian-American food, or “tavern-cut” pizza that Minnesotans enjoy to this day.

    For a true taste of Minnesota’s old Scandinavian food, venture out to the now overwhelmingly Latinx stronghold of East Lake Street in Minneapolis and visit Ingebretsen’s, a century-old deli that offers everything from cured salmon (gravlax) to savory flatbread (lefse) to Scandinavian sweets. Minnesota’s scratch bakeries also have plenty of traditional Nordic fare, from the waffle cone-like krumkake to cardamom bread, all over the state, and particularly at spots like Swedish Crown Bakery in Anoka.

    While old-school Scandinavian restaurants may be thin on the ground, Nordic countries have greatly influenced the state’s modern fine dining scene. The Bachelor Farmer in the reliably trendy North Loop neighborhood of Minneapolis has been doing minimalist, often foraging-driven, farm-to-table food for nearly a decade. Willard’s in Cambridge, Minnesota is a restaurant that has proliferated in recent years—it’s about an hour from the population center of Minneapolis-St. Paul, it’s helmed by a well-credentialed executive chef, and it takes cues from Scandinavia (ham, dill, Swedish flatbread) when it comes to its menu. See also: Vann, an upscale new lakeside spot in Wayzata, run by a high-profile chef who is inspired by the seafood of Japan and Scandinavia.

    Chefs Blake Meier and Gavin Kaysen at Fika, inside the American Swedish Institute in Minnesota

    The American Swedish Institute is a sprawling center for Scandinavian culture in south Minneapolis, and home to the restaurant FIKA.

    Photograph by Stephanie Rau
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Chefs Blake Meier and Gavin Kaysen at Fika, inside the American Swedish Institute in Minnesota
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Chefs Blake Meier and Gavin Kaysen at Fika, inside the American Swedish Institute in Minnesota
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    At FIKA in Minneapolis, guests take a much-needed break from their hectic lives to take in artful, composed, Scandinavian fare.
    Photographs by Stephanie Rau

    At the American Swedish Institute, a sprawling, castle-like property that towers benignly over South Minneapolis, food plays a major role, too. The site marries the beautifully preserved Turnblad Mansion with a modern museum, gift-shop, café, and event space. The café at ASI, known as FIKA, marries convenience with craft—it’s fully modern and engaged by the contemporary scene but also deeply inspired by Scandinavian tradition. It’s part of a new wave of Scandinavian-inspired food that is sweeping across the state, and All-Clad joined National Geographic in Minnesota to document it with the help of local chef Gavin Kaysen.

    FIKA’s blend of classic flavors and chic presentation is guided by Chef Blake Meier. Meier cooked his way through college, where he studied graphic design, but the call of the kitchen was irresistible. “I was just curious to get back into the kitchen and just abruptly ended my graphic design career,” says Meier. But, he adds, there are many parallels between creating visual art with a computer or sketchpad and edible art with a saucepan and garnishes. “When I’m cooking, I’m putting my emotions on a plate—developing a palate for what tastes good together, how to season, and how to build all these layers of flavor. It’s very similar to when you’re designing.”

    Chefs Blake Meier and Gavin Kaysen at Fika, inside the American Swedish Institute in Minnesota
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Chefs Blake Meier and Gavin Kaysen at Fika, inside the American Swedish Institute in Minnesota
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Left:

    Chef Gavin Kaysen (right) talks with Chef Blake Meier (left) about his training, his food, and his restaurant’s connection with the land.

    Right:

    Dishes at FIKA often revolve around seasonal vegetables and pair visual beauty with subtle, pleasing flavors.

    Photographs by Stephanie Rau
    Chefs Blake Meier and Gavin Kaysen at Fika, inside the American Swedish Institute in Minnesota
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Chef Blake Meier of FIKA has training in art and graphic design and compares plating food to filling a blank canvas.
    Photograph by Stephanie Rau (Left) and Photograph Still Courtesy PROM Creative (Right)

    FIKA’s name comes from the Swedish tradition of fika, a daily chance to drink some coffee, have a snack, and connect with other people. “Fika is the concept of taking a break from your day,” says Meier. “We have a full service menu, but a lot of people just come in and get a cup of coffee or a roll […] It’s taking a break, putting your phone in your pocket for a minute, and catching up with someone’s life.”

    The restaurant is informed by the conversation between the refined and the rustic; it’s about a casual cup of coffee and a cardamom roll, yes, but it’s also about Meier’s effort to turn seasonal food onto art that’s “painted” onto the blank canvas of a diner’s plate. The restaurant is a connection between Scandinavia and Minnesota, and between the cities and food sourced from the state’s woods and lakes.

    “A lot of the fish we get—the trout and the herring—comes from the Grand Marais, Lake Superior areas,” says Meier. “Although we can’t get herring year round, we try to use it as much as possible in season because it really hits home with Swedish and Scandinavian people.”

    Chef Blake Meier demonstrates Sautéed White Asparagus Salad with Olive Oil Poached Artichoke

    Chefs Gavin Kaysen (right) and Blake Meier (left) trim artichokes to prepare a recipe from FIKA.

    Photograph by Stephanie Rau
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Chef Blake Meier demonstrates Sautéed White Asparagus Salad with Olive Oil Poached Artichoke
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Chef Blake Meier demonstrates Sautéed White Asparagus Salad with Olive Oil Poached Artichok
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Fresh local ingredients are at the core of FIKA’s food during Minnesota’s warmer months.
    Photographs by Stephanie Rau

    Along with fish, vegetables play a starring role at Fika—the menu evolves with the season and what Meier is growing in his own garden. “This is the first year I’m growing asparagus,” he says. “It’s going really well. I’ve gotten three or four sprouted, and I’m letting them grow for the next few years.”

    Those asparagus are part of the inspiration for the recipe he’s sharing, which relies on an All-Clad Copper Core 3-quart sauté pan and All-Clad Copper Core 8" fry pan to provide even heating in order to cook delicate ingredients. “[The recipe] plays with different flavors and textures,” says Meier. “I chose it because I really like to work with vegetables—they’re one of my strong points in the industry. Sometimes they get left behind in the dust a little bit.” Meier’s sense of understatement here is typical—while his raw materials may be seasonal vegetables and freshwater fish, the results are nothing less than edible art on the plate.

    Sautéed White Asparagus Salad with Olive Oil Poached Artichoke

    <p>Chef Blake Meier shares a vegetarian dish that features fresh, seasonal ingredients from his garden with step-by-step instructions for home cooks.</p>
<p>Suggested Cookware: <a href="https://www.all-clad.com/c/COPPER-CORE%C2%AE-3-Qt-Saute-Pan-/p/8700800035?utm_source=National%20Geographic&amp;utm_medium=banner&amp;utm_campaign=US%2FEN%2FCLAD%2FAttention%2FDIS%2FDIR%2FPublisher%2F_%2F2019-07%2F_%2FLI%2FCOOKWARE_AND_BAKEWARE%2FPots_And_Pans%2F_%2F_%2FBurst%2F_%2FNAT_BAN%2F&amp;utm_content=%25epid!" target="_blank">All-Clad Copper Core 3-quart sauté pan</a> and <a href="https://www.all-clad.com/Cookware/Fry-Pans/COPPER-CORE®-8&quot;-Fry-Pan-/p/8700800022/?utm_source=National%20Geographic&amp;utm_medium=banner&amp;utm_campaign=US%2FEN%2FCLAD%2FAttention%2FDIS%2FDIR%2FPublisher%2F_%2F2019-07%2F_%2FLI%2FCOOKWARE_AND_BAKEWARE%2FPots_And_Pans%2F_%2F_%2FBurst%2F_%2FNAT_BAN%2F&amp;utm_content=%25epid!" target="_blank">All-Clad Copper Core 8” fry pan</a></p>
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    <p><b>For the Cream</b></p>
<ul>
<li>2 tablespoons horseradish, grated</li>
<li>1 cup heavy cream</li>
</ul>
<p><b>For the Compote</b></p>
<ul>
<li>1 tablespoon unsalted butter</li>
<li>1 cup chanterelle mushrooms, sliced</li>
<li>1 clove garlic</li>
<li>2-3 sprigs thyme</li>
<li>1/4 cup dry white wine</li>
<li>Salt to taste</li>
<li>Ground black pepper</li>
</ul>
<p><b>For the Artichoke</b></p>
<ul>
<li>3 artichokes, trimmed</li>
<li>4 cups olive oil</li>
<li>1/2 lemon</li>
<li>3 garlic cloves</li>
</ul>
<p><b>For the Asparagus</b></p>
<ul>
<li>1 pound white asparagus, trimmed</li>
</ul>
<p><b>For the Vinaigrette</b></p>
<ul>
<li>1 shallot, minced</li>
<li>1 teaspoon sugar</li>
<li>1/4 cup white balsamic vinegar</li>
<li>1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest</li>
<li>1 teaspoon Dijon mustard</li>
<li>1 ounce hazelnut oil</li>
<li>1 ounce olive oil</li>
<li>1 ounce canola oil</li>
<li>1 handful toasted hazelnuts</li>
<li>Crushed salt</li>
</ul>
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    <p>To prepare the cream: Combine the horseradish and heavy cream. Cool in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.</p>
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    <p>To prepare the compote: Heat an <a href="https://www.all-clad.com/Cookware/Fry-Pans/COPPER-CORE®-8&quot;-Fry-Pan-/p/8700800022/?utm_source=National%20Geographic&amp;utm_medium=banner&amp;utm_campaign=US%2FEN%2FCLAD%2FAttention%2FDIS%2FDIR%2FPublisher%2F_%2F2019-07%2F_%2FLI%2FCOOKWARE_AND_BAKEWARE%2FPots_And_Pans%2F_%2F_%2FBurst%2F_%2FNAT_BAN%2F&amp;utm_content=%25epid!" target="_blank">All-Clad Copper Core 8” fry pan</a> over high heat and add butter, swirling pan. When the butter begins to sizzle, add the mushrooms. Cook, stirring often, until the mushrooms have begun to soften and sweat (about 3 minutes). Then add the garlic. Cook, stirring until fragrant (30 seconds to a minute), add the thyme, and salt and pepper to taste. Add wine and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pan, until the wine has evaporated. Taste and adjust seasonings. Transfer the mixture to a blender and lightly pulse until smooth.</p>
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    <p>To prepare the artichoke: Combine the olive oil, lemon and garlic in an <a href="https://www.all-clad.com/c/COPPER-CORE%C2%AE-3-Qt-Saute-Pan-/p/8700800035?utm_source=National%20Geographic&amp;utm_medium=banner&amp;utm_campaign=US%2FEN%2FCLAD%2FAttention%2FDIS%2FDIR%2FPublisher%2F_%2F2019-07%2F_%2FLI%2FCOOKWARE_AND_BAKEWARE%2FPots_And_Pans%2F_%2F_%2FBurst%2F_%2FNAT_BAN%2F&amp;utm_content=%25epid!" target="_blank">All-Clad Copper Core 3-quart sauté pan</a>. Bring the skillet to low heat and add the artichokes. Cook for approximately 1 hour until fork tender.</p>
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    <p>To prepare the asparagus: Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in an <a href="https://www.all-clad.com/Cookware/Fry-Pans/COPPER-CORE®-8&quot;-Fry-Pan-/p/8700800022/?utm_source=National%20Geographic&amp;utm_medium=banner&amp;utm_campaign=US%2FEN%2FCLAD%2FAttention%2FDIS%2FDIR%2FPublisher%2F_%2F2019-07%2F_%2FLI%2FCOOKWARE_AND_BAKEWARE%2FPots_And_Pans%2F_%2F_%2FBurst%2F_%2FNAT_BAN%2F&amp;utm_content=%25epid!" target="_blank">All-Clad Copper Core 8” fry pan</a>. Add the asparagus and salt to taste. Sauté until the asparagus is tender and add the wine. Cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pan, until the wine has evaporated.</p>
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    <p>To prepare the vinaigrette: Mix the shallot and sugar, and set aside to macerate. In another bowl, mix the white balsamic vinegar, lemon zest, and mustard. Emulsify with hazelnut oil, olive oil and canola oil. Fold in the hazelnuts and the macerated shallots. Salt to taste.</p>
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    <p>Remove the cream from the refrigerator, and using a cheesecloth, strain into a mixing bowl. Discard the horseradish. Season the cream with salt and whisk until light peaks form.</p>
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    <p>Place on the centers of the plates equal portions of the mushroom compote and place the artichokes and stalks of asparagus over each portion. Drizzle with vinaigrette and serve with the cream.</p>
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    <p>Chef Blake Meier shares a vegetarian dish that features fresh, seasonal ingredients from his garden with step-by-step instructions for home cooks.</p> <p>Suggested Cookware: <a href="https://www.all-clad.com/c/COPPER-CORE%C2%AE-3-Qt-Saute-Pan-/p/8700800035?utm_source=National%20Geographic&amp;utm_medium=banner&amp;utm_campaign=US%2FEN%2FCLAD%2FAttention%2FDIS%2FDIR%2FPublisher%2F_%2F2019-07%2F_%2FLI%2FCOOKWARE_AND_BAKEWARE%2FPots_And_Pans%2F_%2F_%2FBurst%2F_%2FNAT_BAN%2F&amp;utm_content=%25epid!" target="_blank">All-Clad Copper Core 3-quart sauté pan</a> and <a href="https://www.all-clad.com/Cookware/Fry-Pans/COPPER-CORE®-8&quot;-Fry-Pan-/p/8700800022/?utm_source=National%20Geographic&amp;utm_medium=banner&amp;utm_campaign=US%2FEN%2FCLAD%2FAttention%2FDIS%2FDIR%2FPublisher%2F_%2F2019-07%2F_%2FLI%2FCOOKWARE_AND_BAKEWARE%2FPots_And_Pans%2F_%2F_%2FBurst%2F_%2FNAT_BAN%2F&amp;utm_content=%25epid!" target="_blank">All-Clad Copper Core 8” fry pan</a></p>

    Experience Scandinavian cuisine at home

    Chef Blake Meier shares a vegetarian dish that features fresh, seasonal ingredients from his garden with step-by-step instructions for home cooks.

    Suggested Cookware: All-Clad Copper Core 3-quart sauté pan and All-Clad Copper Core 8” fry pan

    Photograph by Stephanie Rau
    James Norton is the food editor for The Growler Magazine in St. Paul, MN.


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