The isle of islands

More than a million sea birds make their homes on the cliffs of St Kilda, Scotland. Visitors can spot 210 different species, including guillemots, kittiwakes, and gannets. St Kilda also has 300,000 pairs of puffins, which accounts for more than 50 percent of the United Kingdom’s entire population of this colorful bird. Puffins are often called “the clowns of the sea” because of their jolly markings. The best time to spot them is during their nesting season, from late April through August.

Evidence of civilization on the archipelago of St Kilda goes back to prehistoric times. The population peaked in the late 17th century with just under 200 people. The ruins of cleitan, stone sheds used for storage, can be found throughout St Kilda. Each cleit was built on a slope, with the front door facing uphill, presumably to stop food stored inside from tumbling out. Without any trees to block the way, the wind could pass through the stones to dry and ultimately preserve food items without using salt or smoke.

Durdle Door lies near the small Isle of Portland, a narrow peninsula just four miles long and 1.75 miles wide, along the Jurassic Coast. This Isle more than makes up for its small stature with its dramatic cliff scenery, plantlife, coves, castles, and lighthouses. This was once a smuggler’s paradise, as evidenced by the pirate graveyard. Portland’s coast, along with the rest of the 95-mile Jurassic Coast, is one of England’s natural UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The Jurassic Coast is also recognized for its incredible geology and fossils that are thought to show a near enough complete record of time from the Mesozoic Era, which happened approximately 250 to 65 million years ago.

Tiny Staffa is known for its unique hexagonal basalt columns, formed by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago. The island is just half a mile long and a quarter mile wide, but its volcanic birth almost makes it look like it’s from another planet. The Vikings landed on Staffa at one point, but it wasn’t until Sir Joseph Banks sung its praises in 1772 that the island gained popularity for its many natural wonders, like Fingal’s Cave—an otherworldly cavern formed by years of ocean erosion and lined with hexagonal basalt columns.

Equidistant from Ireland, Scotland, Wales, and England, the Isle of Man is ringed by rocky, grass-flocked coastline and breath-taking cliffs that plunge into the Irish Sea. The island has a long history that dates back to the Mesolithic Period, towards the end of the Ice Age. A mix of Celtic and Nordic (Viking) history can still be seen today. The island has 12 burial chambers, the largest Neolithic tomb in the British Isles, a collection of Norse and Celtic burial crosses that date back to the 6th century, and some spectacular castles.

Islay is one of the southernmost islands of the Inner Hebrides, off the west coast of Scotland. The island has a mild climate which helps its peat bogs, wetlands, salt marshes, heather moorlands, and woodlands flourish. Islay is best known for its peaty whisky malts and nine scenic distilleries, including the southern region’s Ardbeg and Laphroig, which are intensely flavored with peat. Bowmore and Bruichladdich distilleries, which lie across the water from each other, produce much lighter tasting notes. Irish Monks may have begun the distillery tradition on the islands as far back as the 1300s. Today, Islay is one of five Scottish whisky regions with legal protections.

Fewer than 20 of the one hundred Shetland Islands are inhabited. This wilderness region is known for its fjords, steep hills, and wind-swept landscapes just 400 miles south of the Arctic Circle. Muckle Flugga, a lighthouse on a small rocky point, is the most northerly point of the UK. Lerwick is the largest town on Mainland, the largest island. Lerwick was founded in the 17th century as a marketplace for Dutch herring fleets. Today, most of the modern waterfront still has the harbor’s original 18th century sandstone buildings—as well as its 17th century smuggling tunnels used by fisherman looking to avoid customs.

Northern Ireland is one of the most recognizable areas of the British Isles due to its various film locations. The north-eastern section of Ireland that makes up Northern Ireland has seen various Celtic, Viking, Norman, and English influences over the centuries, and boasts a plethora of natural wonders to explore. The Giant’s Causeway, for example, is Northern Ireland’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site and formed 50 to 60 million years ago during intense volcanic activity. The resulting 40,000 interlocking basalt columns look like a colossal pavement—fit for giants to stride across. The Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge was originally created in 1755 to connect the mainland to wild Carrick-a-Rede island, presumably by the salmon fisherman who used it.

Of the 70 Orkney Islands off Scotland’s northern coast, only 17 are actually inhabited. This may be a reason why they have a wealth of well-preserved archaeological sites, intricately documenting civilization that existed 5,000 years ago. The UNESCO Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site includes Orkney’s most famous archaeological wonders: Skara Brae, the Ring of Brodgar, the Standing Stones of Stenness, and the Maeshowe chambered tomb. Each site holds its own intrigue—the Standing Stones, for example, are thought have been involved in ceremonies where living communities celebrated their connection with those from the past.

Orkney’s vibrant capital, Kirkwall, has Scandinavian beginnings as a Norse settlement. The St. Magnus Cathedral is one of the islands’ most iconic buildings. It took nearly 300 years to complete the Romanesque cathedral dedicated to Magnus Erlendsson, Earl of Orkney. This is the only complete Medieval cathedral in Scotland as well as the only church in the country to house the bones of its name saint. The church receives hundreds of thousands of visitors per year, making it the most popular site in Orkney.

A great way to see the British Isles is by boat. Cruises are helping further scientific exploration by enlisting citizen scientists—everyday people who help researchers by collecting data in remote areas. Hurtigruten Expeditions partners with universities and notable institutions to provide at least two citizen scientist programs on each ship. Participation is completely voluntary, for those who feel inspired. While exploring the islands, travelers can record wildlife sightings and collect environmental data that will help researchers keep tabs on this unusual ecosystem.