In the November/December 2004 Issue

FEATURES

60

Canada Coast-to-Coast
Canucks let us in on a favorite unheralded spot in each province, from an island retreat in British Columbia to Newfoundland's bird paradise. By Barbara Peck. Photographs by Susan Seubert.

76

Salzburg in Winter
Watch out for errant snowballs. Mozart's hometown shows its sassier side in the quiet colder months. By Gary Krist. Photographs by Bob Krist.

85

The Traveler List: Off-Season Europe
Special Foldout Guide: From snowshoeing to opera, 50 reasons why Europe beckons right now.

92

The Long Run
Part 6: The ultimate road tripper heads into the home stretch—Faulkner country to red-hot Miami, where, after 7,000 miles, he finally puts his car in park. By Mel White. Photographs by Brooks Walker.

TravelWise: Trip-Planning Guides
Canada: Getting to and staying at our local finds, p. 74. Salzburg: Luxe hotels with low-season prices and how to get a city discount card, p. 90. The Long Run: Top attractions along the Mississippi-to-Miami route, useful websites, and local foods, p. 103.

DEPARTMENTS

10

Editor's Note
Current events, new features, and more.

12

Travel Talk
Letters from our readers.

17

Smart Traveler
Pole position: Arctic or Antarctic? • All-girl getaways • Clean beaches • Up-and-coming East Atlanta Village • Five cool travel bags • Getting last-minute tee times in Florida • Booking vacations on eBay • A-List deals.

33

Real Travel
As any global fashionista knows, if you want to get to the heart of a culture, you have to go through its closets. By Daisann McLane.

44

Travel Watch
Aussies fight to keep a favorite island no-frills • Better boating tips • Best Practices: Backwater Everglades. By Jonathan B. Tourtellot.

46

Local Color
Chill out in hip . . . Singapore? With new arts venues and laid-back bars, the island-state revamps its staid image. By Wayne Arnold.

48

48 Hours
Despite a recession, upbeat Buenos Aires lures visitors with spirited tango halls, steak houses, and big bargains. By Rob La Franco.

55

Place of a Lifetime: Mongolia
An award-winning writer travels on horseback in an epic trek across the fabled land of Genghis Khan. By Stanley Stewart.

108

Trips
Eastern Europe's rising stars: Ljubljana, L’viv, Zagreb, Gdansk • What's new in San Diego • Dispatch: Scotland • Calendar: holiday events • WorldWise quiz.

117

Annual Index
A listing of articles published in Traveler magazine.

118

Parting Shot
The issue's most memorable photograph.



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