Wilder Side of the Tetons
Room and Board
While Jackson has mushroomed into a tourist megalopolis, rustic Driggs, on the western flank of the Tetons, has managed to keep its feet on the ground as it has morphed into an outdoors-adventure capital.
Friendly and unpretentious, Driggs is for people who love the mountains enough to live, work, and play in themincluding many of the service-industry stiffs who keep Jackson running but can't afford to live there.
All prices in U.S. dollars
Several airlines serve Jackson, Wyoming, 30 miles [48 kilometers] east.
The Teton River is the best place to cast for cutthroat, rainbow, and brook trout. Laren Piquet Guiding Services (+1 208 354 2786) charges $300 per day to drift along the Teton in a flat-bottom boat.
The 123,451-acre [49,958-hectare] Jedediah Smith Wilderness in Targhee National Forest stretches from east of town to the boundary of Grand Teton National Park. Ride through wildflower meadows along Tin Cup Creek to a ridge overlooking South Leigh Canyon, then drop down to a campsite in Granite Basin.
The next day, head into Green Lake for some fly-fishing. Dry Ridge Outfitters (+1 208 354 2284; www.dryridge.com) leads trips for $185 per person per day.
Hike 8 miles [13 kilometers] along the South Teton Creek to Alaska Basin, then continue 2 miles [3 kilometers] to Hurricane Pass for a spectacular overlook of Teton Valley and the town of Jackson.
Starting at Horseshoe Canyon, the Big Hole Challenge loops 13.5 miles [22 kilometers] through the foothills of the Big Hole Mountains.
Big Hole Mountain Sports (800 574 3377 [U.S. and Canada only]; www.bikesnboards.com) rents front-suspension bikes for $28 a day.
Room and Board
Doubles at Teton Ridge Ranch (+1 208 456 2650),
a rustically grand log-cabin lodge, are $550 per day, including all meals, beer, wine, and horseback riding.
A sporty crowd gulps dollar beers and scarfs scallop polenta at the Royal Wolf (+1 208 354 8365).
Knotty Pine (+1 208 787 2866), in nearby Victor, Idaho, fills up nightly with whiskey-drinking wranglers and rockheads.
Teton Valley Chamber of Commerce (+1 208 354 2500; www.tetonvalleychamber.com)
Targhee National Forest, Teton Basin Ranger District (+1 208 354 2312; www.fs.fed.us/tnf)