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In the Magazine This Month
May 2004, Volume 6, Number 4

• Features
• Departments
   • Journal
   • Columns
• Also in the May 2004 issue

Into the Great Wild Open
To get the most out of America's best national parks—Yellowstone, Yosemite, Glacier, and Denali among them—you need a game plan. We went straight to the experts to bring you the ultimate guide to the best trails, campsites, and wildlife (even the best lobster enchilada) that America's parks have to offer. Read excerpt >>
BY JAMES VLAHOS

Parks on the Fly
Only got a weekend to spare? Turn to our foldout guide to ten perfect 48-hour park plans—Acadia, Badlands, Everglades, Crater Lake, and more.

Messner's Burden
Reinhold Messner's 1970 traverse of Pakistan's 26,660-foot (8,126-meter) Nanga Parbat was his first legendary climb—and his most tragic. His younger brother Günther was lost on the descent. Now, after 30 years of silence, Messner's former teammates are blaming Reinhold for Günther's death. Did ambition push the superstar mountaineer too far? Read excerpt >>
BY DAVID ROBERTS

West Highland Peace Walk
Clan feuds, political murders, blood grievances . . . Scotland's a land with a brutal history. So why is it so peaceful today? Fueled by a thirst for resolution (and the occasional dram of single malt), DAVID QUAMMEN rambled more than a hundred miles over mountains and moors searching for the answer to a Highland conundrum. Read excerpt >>
 
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American Wilds
Island hopping in Alaska? It's easy. To explore the Inside Passage like a native, all you need are a bike, a ferry schedule, and a hearty appetite.
BY ROBERT EARLE HOWELLS

Photo Gallery
The best way to do Alaska's 380-mile Inside Passage is by a combination of bike and ferry. The best way to get amped for the trip is by taking a look at photographer Rich Reid's exclusive outtakes in our photo gallery >>

Next Weekend
Come spring, Durango, Colorado, is the place to find altitude without attitude. Plus, 12 more reasons to get out of town in May.
BY JIM GORMAN AND ABRAHM LUSTGARDEN

Wild Roads
The Arkansas Ozarks have a little bit of everything: caves, waterfalls, paddling, and a Grand Canyon all their own.
BY CLIFF RANSOM

Tip Sheet
Just employ a little shutter diplomacy, and taking great photos of even the wariest strangers will be a snap.
BY ROBERT YOUNG PELTON

Global Health
That desert vacation got you down, physically? It may be a case of the flu—or it could be something worse: valley fever.
BY JIM THORNTON

The Essentials
The answer to going where you please in the great outdoors without sacrificing comfort—car camping. Here are the basics to setting your mind on "auto."
BY STEVE CASIMIRO

Gear
The world of protective eyewear is becoming polarized—and it's about time. These six sets of stylish, sporty shades will see you through the sunny season.
BY BEVIN WALLACE

Leading Edge
Should you go top-of-the-line? A few simple rules for deciding when it's OK to splurge on hot new tech—and when to resist.
BY STEVE CASIMIRO
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Special Report
No one has ever run the Nile River from its source in the Ethiopian highlands to the Mediterranean. A film crew braves crocodiles and bandits in an attempt to finally nab the first descent.
BY MICHAEL J. McRAE

The Adventures of Tim Cahill
Something's in the wind where TIM CAHILL lives, and it drives most folks crazy. But it has others flying high. A breezy look at our love-hate relationship with the wind. Read excerpt >>

Books
Pico Iyer seeks the strange in Sun After Dark; Robert Whitaker retells an epic of Amazonian survival in The Mapmaker's Wife; plus, a compendium of North America's most audacious climbs.
BY ANTHONY BRANDT
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May 2004



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