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There & Back
Venice by Paddle
NAME: Olivier Renck
DESTINATION: Venice, Italy
WHY I WENT
I like to mix up my travel experience. Venice is not your average sports environment. I thought taking kayaks into the canals would be a great way for my girlfriend and me to marry outdoor sports with history and culture. Plus, with all the exercise, we could have two gelatos instead of one.
CROWD CONTROL
Thousands of visitors walk through the famous Piazza San Marco daily. When we paddled the Grand Canalwhich many consider to be the most beautiful "avenue" in the worldwe were able to avoid the crowds and park right next to the piazza. The police completely ignored us. Another area, called Sant' Elena, in the Castello district, was different from other parts of Venice. So tranquil. We just pulled out our kayaks and took a nap on the grass.
VENICE DROWNING?
We entered Venice from the sea, paddling in through the Veneta Lagoon. From this perspective, the city was amazingly quiet. You can get right up close to the buildings and really see how old the architecture is. When you touch the walls, it's like you're traveling back in time. Though they say Venice is sinking, we didn't see buildings halfway underwater. The bottoms of some old doors were damaged, but we really didn't get the feeling that the place was going to disappear.
BIG MYTH
Everyone told us the water was going to be extremely dirty. We were very concerned that the odor might ruin our trip. It's true it is not cleanyou don't want to drink itbut it doesn't smell. It was beautiful how the green contrasted with the walls and how things reflected off the water.
A WAY OF LIFE
Venice is just like any other city, except that here most deliveries and inner-city transportation happen in motorboats. They even have "valet parking" at restaurants. People were always happyand surprisedto see us coming in our colorful kayaks.
Photograph by Olivier Renck
Portrait courtesy of Olivier Alluis
Additional Excerpts
From the print edition, November 2004
Adventure Travel 2005: Amazing excursions for the new year
Return to Zootopia: David Quammen revisits the Galápagos
No Margin for Error: America's most perilous peak
Pelton's World: Former no-go zones make a comeback
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