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Classic Trails 2005
Sweden's Kungsleden
King of the Arctic. By Peter Potterfield
In the extreme north of Sweden, a hundred miles (160 kilometers) inside the Arctic Circle, hides the last remote wilderness in Western Europe. This is Lapland, and through it runs Kungsleden, the "King of Trails," a 275-mile (443-kilometer) route through an expansive landscape of birch forests, hidden glaciers, powerful rivers, and the highest mountains in Sweden. The sheer scale of the Kungsleden hits home when, at the end of a 16-mile (26-kilometer) day, you realize you've only traversed half of the undulating, glacier-carved valley that you dropped into that morning.
Kungsleden runs through four national parks and a nature reserve. While hiking its entire length requires a month or more, you can appreciate the highlights of the trek by taking a week to cover its northernmost 65 miles (105 kilometers). In addition to the Tjäktjavagge, Lapland's most majestic valley, this week-long section also takes in the Kebnekaise range, which includes Sweden's highest peak, Mount Kebne (6,926 feet, or 2,111 meters). But while the Arctic terrain is rugged, there's a certain civility to the Kungsleden. Sturdy suspension bridges span dangerous rivers, and comfortable huts welcome hikers at the conclusion of each day. At both ends of this 65-mile (105-kilometer) route lie two of Sweden's mountain stations, where hot showers and limb-warming spirits will bookend your stay in the wilderness.
WHEN TO GO: Mid-June to mid-September LOGISTICS: The 65-mile (105-kilometer) sampler section starts at Abisko, the northern terminus of Kungsleden, and finishes at the Sami (ethnic Laplander) settlement of Nikkaluokta. Base your trek out of Kiruna, an old ore-mining town with excellent air connections to Stockholm (U.S. $347; www.scandinavian.net). In Kiruna, collect information about the trail from the Swedish Tourist Association (www.svenskaturistforeningen.se); they can also organize your bus transportation to either end of the route (U.S. $26). While it is possible to hike in either direction, it's best to travel from north to souththat keeps the sun warming your face, no small consideration in the Arctic.
Staging area: Kiruna, Sweden
Recommended distance: 65 miles (105 kilometers) Total length: 275 miles (443 kilometers) Trail time: 5-7 days Total trip: Ten days Difficulty (scale of 1 to 5, 5 most difficult): 3 Do It Yourself cost: U.S. $1,000-$1,200 Adapted from Classic Hikes of the World, copyright 2005, by Peter Potterfield. Published by W.W. Norton & Company, Inc. For ten more unbeatable hikesand all the how-to details to plan your trippick up the May issue. Subscribe to Adventure today and save 62 percent off the cover price! Photograph by Peter Potterfield
Additional Excerpts
From the print edition, May 2005
The World's Best Hikes: Author Peter Potterfield's top trail picks
Point, Shoot, and Know When to Run: NG photographer Carsten Peter's incredible life
Pelton's World: A modern-day Easy Rider lays down the rules of the road
"Life's an Adventure" Reader Photo Album: See readers' photos and submit your own
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