Southern Pantanal: For eco lovers and lovebirds

Every sunset in the Pantanal was unforgettable, either because it followed a day filled with charismatic wildlife and people, or because the sky exploded with every imaginable color. And most days, it was both. The reflection of the fading light on the river reminded me to stay present. Whether or not I captured the perfect shot, sunset always offered something deeper. Time to reflect, a moment of gratitude, and the comforting reminder that tomorrow, I’d have another chance to witness something extraordinary.

Perhaps the most awe-strikingly beautiful jaguar I’ve ever encountered, this remarkable cat is known as Aracai. With her piercing gaze and powerful presence, she commands attention even in the wildest corners of the Pantanal. Aracai is currently raising two male cubs, and witnessing the balance of her strength and tenderness as she hunts, lounges, and cares for them was both a natural history lesson and an emotionally moving experience. Every moment with her felt intimate and unforgettable. Time slows down in her presence and it was time well spent.

When the trumpet trees bloom, the Pantanal bursts into color, signaling the turning of seasons with a spectacular show of pink and yellow blossoms. These vibrant flowers appear suddenly and disappear just as fast, making their brief window of beauty feel like a secret shared only with those lucky enough to be nearby. The best part? You don’t need a drone or a zoom lens: The trees bloom right along roads, trails, and lodges, often close enough to touch. If you catch them at the right moment, don’t wait, capture every angle before the parakeets eat every last petal.

Draped in golden hour light, a giant anteater ambles across the open fields of Pousada Aguapé. Its shaggy coat and sweeping tail cast a distinct profile that you’d never confuse with any other creature in the Pantanal. Here, wildlife is not just present, it’s part of the daily rhythm. Quiet moments like this unfold without fanfare, but leave a lasting impression. With patience and presence, even the most elusive animals reveal themselves. In this realm, where nature still reigns supreme, sightings like this feel less like chance and more like a reward for showing up and waiting.

Daily horseback tours offer a chance to experience Southern Pantanal the way it was meant to be seen, slow, grounded, and in rhythm with the land. Riding alongside skilled Pantaneiro cowboys, you’ll traverse open grasslands, flooded marshes, and palm-lined trails, just as generations have before you. It’s not just a ride, it’s a connection. You’re not passing through as a tourist, but becoming part of a living landscape where tradition, nature, and quiet discovery come together in every footstep. As a photographer, it’s also a great way to change your perspective.

It’s not just the daytime adventures that make Caiman unforgettable, it’s the quiet magic of the hours before sunrise and after sunset. In this in-between light, the Pantanal shifts into something softer, more mysterious. You might spot a nocturnal predator on the prowl, hear the haunting calls of owls and nightjars, or catch the subtle rustle of wildlife waking up or settling in. These are the moments that feel unscripted, intimate, and rare. At Caiman, nature doesn’t keep office hours anywhere, at any time, there’s always something worth seeing. Keep your camera and attention focused.

The title “world’s largest rodent” might not win any style points, but what the capybara lacks in elegance, it more than makes up for in charisma. With their laid-back attitude and undeniable charm, these gentle giants are everywhere in the Pantanal. You’ll find them grazing in open fields, lounging in natural ponds, or socializing beneath mango trees with their extended family groups. They move through the landscape with quiet confidence, almost completely at ease. And, honestly, they should be at ease, because in many ways they run the place.

With its towering frame, prehistoric features, and slow, deliberate movements, the jabiru stork feels like a creature from another world. Hovering at over five feet (152cm) tall with a massive black beak and brilliant white plumage, the jabiru commands attention in the wetlands of Caiman Pantanal. As it wades through the marsh, scanning for fish and frogs, it brings a sense of ancient confidence to the modern-day Pantanal. Photographing one up close is like witnessing evolution in motion, a living relic in a land where the wild still rules. In the Pantanal, even the birds feel timeless.

My first jaguar sighting in the Pantanal was unforgettable. While out with the Onçafari team, we got word that a female was resting nearby. Passion and adrenaline coursed through my veins, but it was patience that paid off. We waited for hours, parked in silence, when suddenly, she called out. I knew that sound. Moments later, a three-month-old cub emerged from the bush. This wasn’t just a sighting, it was a story unfolding in real time. My first “baby” jaguar sighting in the wild, and one I’ll never forget.

It’s not just the sights, the sounds, or the soft light that make the Pantanal unique, it’s the deep-rooted passion that locals have for the land. Their connection to this place runs through every story, every gesture, every shared drink. One conversation is all it takes to understand that the true richness here isn’t found in a single animal or landscape, but in the quality of life itself. It’s shaped by patience, purpose, and a slower, more intentional rhythm that invites you to feel, not just see, the wild.

As the full moon sinks behind the palm trees, a pair of blue-and-gold macaws share a perch with a hyacinth macaw. Their vibrant feathers glow in the early light, a scene so surreal it feels painted. Nearby, a Pantaneiro cowboy rides through the valley of mango trees at Caiman Pantanal, a living symbol of the region’s deep connection to the land, wildlife, and tradition. In Southern Pantanal, nature almost feels staged. The skies are alive with color, the culture is grounded in purpose, but authenticity isn’t performed, it simply exists. Here, nature and heritage share the same story, and you don’t have to search far for iconic moments.

This is one of the best places in all of Brazil to see the world-famous hyacinth macaw in its natural habitat. With their electric blue feathers and unmistakable, echoing calls, these striking birds are more than just photogenic, they’re unforgettable. Often seen gliding above open fields or perched high in palm trees, hyacinth macaws are a living symbol of Southern Pantanal. Spotting one up close is not just a highlight of any visit, it’s a moment that stays with you long after you’ve left. Life without the daily chorus of macaws just doesn’t feel the same.

Head deeper into the Kingdom of the Cat here