Alcan-Beaver Creek Border CrossingIt is so quiet at the 141st meridian that you can hear ice crackle and shift. This is the line that divides the United States and Canada, Alaska and the Yukon. Along it, a narrow cut through conifer-wreathed wilderness marks what is, at more than 1,500 miles, the longest undefended north-south border in the world. If the snow had come on time when I first set foot here, in late October 2018, animal tracks of assorted shapes and sizes would have freckled the surface around me: snowshoe hares, caribou, grizzly and black bears, lynx, wolves.

As replete with wildlife as the far north is, it is largely devoid of people. The Yukon Conservation Officers recently on patrol near the

Poker Creek-Little