The absolute last interview I did in China convinced me: The country has a burgeoning locavore movement, complete with farm-to-table fast(ish) food and home delivery of small-farm produce.

But here’s the Chinese tweak: While Chinese locavores may share an ethos with their American counterparts, at least 72 percent of Chinese fear that their food is unsafe. And no wonder. The system has been rocked by scandals like toxic melamine in milk and infant formula, heavy metals like cadmium in rice, watermelons exploding from growth hormone, and store owners selling meat soaked in bleach.

I wasn’t surprised to hear that those scandals have in part led to an organic industry in China. And while I was surprised