Butchery is a skill as old as hunting itself, but now, butchers are undergoing a PR renaissance. And it virtually removes animals from the picture.

TV shows and articles about butchery are usually pretty devoid of actual meat cutting, focusing rather on charcuterie aging, butchery restaurants, or cooking techniques.

The thing is, the thoughtful creation of cuts of steak to maximize taste and value and use every part of an animal can vary widely among talented people around the world, from Korea to Uruguay, and even across America. Every butcher will tell you her way is the best.

Last month I had to feed a crowd on a dime. Pam the Butcher, my second-generation butcher of 15 years at Wagshal’s in