This past weekend, I tasted shrimp grown with feed made from genetically-engineered bacteria.

The bacteria, which are way more interesting than the shrimp, are the brainchildren of Larry Feinberg, CEO and co-founder of Knipbio, a Boston-area startup. They’re interesting because they help address one of the gnarliest problems of a growing human population: feeding them fish.

We’re getting about as much from the oceans as we can. Too much, in some places; many species are severely overfished. We’ve got more and more people, but no more ocean, so fish farming has to make up the difference. Which it has already begun to do. The FAO estimates that, right now, about half the fish we eat are farmed, but that’s expected to