The JBF is the country’s preeminent food organization, at the center of the US culinary community. Although I expected to be surrounded by only my fellow gastronomic devotees at last year’s conference on The Paradox of Appetite, representatives from decidedly non-healthful food corporations had a presence, in the form of their public relations professionals. I appreciated their attendance.

So often we in the good food movement speak only to each other in our own language and shorthand, and not to the wider world that moves on with or without us. That includes the biggest corporations that feed millions of Americans every day.

I sense that the JBF get this; it is hosting an entire session on the importance of