When I phone at 10 the line is busy and remains so until 10:07, when the same voice informs me, “I’m so sorry, all of our reservations for two months from today are gone. Please try back tomorrow.”

It has occurred to most restaurant-goers, but particularly food writers who dine out for a living, that the competition that results from accepting calls only at an exact time rivals that for the Paul McCartney Farewell Tour. And perhaps as restaurant-reservation competition becomes the Iron Chef of the dining set, the whole system should be reconsidered. Where there is demand, shortage, and people with more money than time to hit redial, there is innovation.

It used to be so easy. Dial a