When you get off the plane in Iceland, people greet you with “Godan daginn,” which in Icelandic means “good day.” The next thing they do is tweak your name. Men receive a –son at the end of their name (it means, well, son). Women get a -dottir (daughter). So for the next few days, we’ll be Dan Stoneson and Spencer Millsapson.

Iceland is a small place. It only has about 320,000 citizens, and it’s about 1/20th the size of neighboring Greenland, but we wanted to start in Iceland for the ways that this place is pretty cutting edge. It’s a major research hub for both climate change and Arctic agriculture. Iceland is also the most efficient user of clean energy on