Last week in Panama, we spent a few days with Brian O’Hanlon, a visionary in two different ways. For one, he’s farming a fish called cobia that’s new to most of the world. Cobia is native to the mid-Atlantic and Indo-Pacific and has an impressive resume: it grows efficiently, packs the nutrient punch that sets fish apart from other protein, and is high grade meat that doesn’t taste fishy. We tried it and you might also, if for no reason than to see how it compares to the species we saw most of the world already eats, like salmon, carp, and sea bass.

The other thing O’Hanlon wants to do is change the way all fish are farmed. Populations of wild