Decades ago, seafood was just good for you. Its only tag line was “brain food,” before concerns about “sustainable” or “factory farmed” got in the way. Fish came from the deep, mysterious, clean oceans, and was a wholesome food so pure that even the most arrogant western chefs would serve it uncooked: Sometimes the experts just can’t improve on Mother Nature.

In 2014 eating seafood is wrought with anxiety, which is itself an impediment to feeding seven billion people worldwide. Seafood is by far the animal protein that requires the fewest amount of resources to put on a plate, according to both common sense and an upcoming article on aquaculture in the June issue of National Geographic. In a world clamoring