Author Laura Ingalls Wilder’s description of receiving the miraculous gift of an orange in the middle of the frozen prairie in the mid-19th century on Christmas day emphasizes our great modern fortune of accessing almost any fruit on the planet at any time it’s available.

We are surrounded by an astonishing variety of fruit heretofore unknown to mankind. Consider the corners of the globe that exist in the produce section of the average grocery store. That said, where I live in Washington, D.C. local fruits are abundant and delicious right now and I’ll generally twist myself into knots to eat locally. But sometimes I yearn for the glories of fruits that simply won’t grow here, and aren’t on usual-suspects lineup in markets.

That’s