If you don’t have a specialty butcher yet, make friends with one quick, because soon grocery stores may not offer as much information about where their meat comes from. I recommend second-generation butcher Pam Ginsberg, mine for 15 years, at Wagshal’s in Washington, D.C.—but more on her in a minute.

First, the big picture: Last week the World Trade Organization (WTO) ruled against the parts of America’s 2002 and 2008 Farm Bills (a big pack of food and agriculture laws that gets revised every five years or so) requiring Country of Origin Labeling (COOL) on all meat and produce sold in America. That means those mandatory signs around U.S. grocery stores allowing shoppers to choose between steak from Mexico or America may soon be