Kvalsund, NorwayAt six o’clock on an August morning in the Norwegian Arctic, Einar Juliussen opens his eyes to a noon-bright summer sun filling his cramped boat cabin. He rolls over and shakes his 15-year-old son, Arvid, awake. Within an hour, with Arvid at the wheel, they’re speeding away from the dock and over the flashing waves of the Repparfjord in search of king crabs.

The Juliussens are working 18-hour days while the sun shines, hauling crabs and hanging them in heavy nets onboard. It’s dangerous work, and both wear helmets, but on this fjord, Juliussen feels confident. He is a sea Sámi, one of the coastal fishers indigenous to the North. His family has fished northern Norway for 3,000 years, previously for