This story appears in the September 2018 issue of National Geographic magazine.
This content is Subscriber-Exclusive
You must have a National Geographic subscription to explore this article.
A Historic Journey Proceeds Across the Roof of the World
As he retraces our ancestors’ global migration on foot, the author sees Afghanistan's peaceful villages—and reminders that tensions persist.
Contending with snow, cold, and a tired donkey, Paul Salopek takes his last steps in Afghanistan’s Wakhan corridor as he and photographer Matthieu Paley navigate the Irshad Pass into Pakistan. The ascent was supposed to take three hours, but it ended up taking nine. At the top of the pass, the clouds cleared as the sun set. “I was struck, despite exhaustion, by the light,” Salopek says. “It was the sort of light you associate with birth—light you are born into."
Read This Next
Go Further
Animals
- How can you tell if a wild animal really needs your help?How can you tell if a wild animal really needs your help?
- Fireflies are vanishing—but you can help protect themFireflies are vanishing—but you can help protect them
- Could this simple plan save Africa's most mysterious cat?Could this simple plan save Africa's most mysterious cat?
- This ray is vanishing from our oceans—and being made into jewelryThis ray is vanishing from our oceans—and being made into jewelry
- Why 4 dead California sea otters have scientists so alarmedWhy 4 dead California sea otters have scientists so alarmed
- SeaWorld allegedly violated the Animal Welfare Act. Why is it still open?SeaWorld allegedly violated the Animal Welfare Act. Why is it still open?
Environment
- Seaweed may play a big role in the fight against climate changeSeaweed may play a big role in the fight against climate change
- Is banning fishing bad for fishermen? Not in this marine reserveIs banning fishing bad for fishermen? Not in this marine reserve
- Dust storms are getting worse—here’s why they’re so destructiveDust storms are getting worse—here’s why they’re so destructive
- Japan poised to release nuclear wastewater into the PacificJapan poised to release nuclear wastewater into the Pacific
History & Culture
- Colossal crabs may hold clue to Amelia Earhart fateColossal crabs may hold clue to Amelia Earhart fate
- The ancient history of tattoos—revealed by inked-up mummiesThe ancient history of tattoos—revealed by inked-up mummies
- The ‘cave of bones’ may hold the mysteries of human originsThe ‘cave of bones’ may hold the mysteries of human origins
- From police raids to pop culture: The history of modern dragFrom police raids to pop culture: The history of modern drag
- How the Stonewall uprising ignited the pride movementHow the Stonewall uprising ignited the pride movement
Science
- How aromatherapy can help kids breathe in some mental goodnessHow aromatherapy can help kids breathe in some mental goodness
- At 64, Diana Nyad swam from Cuba to Florida. How'd she do it?At 64, Diana Nyad swam from Cuba to Florida. How'd she do it?
- A ‘kitten-otter-bear’? Identifying a very strange skeletonA ‘kitten-otter-bear’? Identifying a very strange skeleton
Travel
- The inside guide to Cádiz: an underrated Andalucian city breakThe inside guide to Cádiz: an underrated Andalucian city break
- Crossing the Desert: From Incense Route to Pilgrimage Route
- Paid Content for Advertiser
Crossing the Desert: From Incense Route to Pilgrimage Route - Experience a ranch stay in Canada's cowboy countryExperience a ranch stay in Canada's cowboy country
- AI can help you plan your next trip—if you know how to ask.AI can help you plan your next trip—if you know how to ask.
- How bison have been brought back from the brink in SaskatchewanHow bison have been brought back from the brink in Saskatchewan