Picture of two legs in wetshoes sticking out of water.

In landlocked Hungary, this ‘sea’ is all some tourists need

A photographer captures the essence of summer in the turquoise shallows of Lake Balaton, central Europe’s largest lake.

A boy dives into the shallow waters of Hungary’s Lake Balaton. The nearly 50-mile-long lake is the largest in central Europe and for decades has been a popular destination for summer vacationers.
ByDaniel Stone
Photographs byZsófia Pályi
July 1, 2021
5 min read

When she was a kid, Zsófia Pályi spent summers with her family at Lake Balaton in western Hungary. Many Hungarians then couldn’t afford travel to other countries, she says, so the lake was an exotic getaway. For others, it was a respite: From the 1960s to ’80s, German families separated by the Berlin Wall reunited on its shores for vacation. People called it the Hungarian Sea.

Picture of Young boy standing in Lake Balaton
Picture of two young women standing in water
Picture of man swimming in Lake Balaton wearing an old waterproof wallet
Picture of boy in goggles standing in water
Picture of young woman with long hair standing in water.
Picture of lady floating in water.
As people frolic, float, and wade in Lake Balaton, photographer Zsófia Pályi captures their portraits in its cyan waters—a result of its shallowness, chemical composition, and algae content. Hungary’s second most popular vacation destination, after Budapest, the lake is surrounded by vineyards, mountains, and thermal spa resorts. Its coastlike ambience lures landlocked Hungarians.

Today, Hungarians still vacation at the lake, and photographer Pályi returns to capture one particular aspect: its shallowness. Balaton is only a few feet deep at the lake’s south end. That makes it a good place for families and kids, says Pályi, and also for the camera shy: The depth lets people decide how much of their bodies to show off and how much to hide underneath.

Picture of people on the pier.
Lake Balaton is roughly 230 square miles in area. The hilly terrain surrounding the lake has created several distinct microclimates in the region.
Picture of two people in car-shaped paddleboat.
Paddleboaters explore the lake. UNESCO is considering designating part of Balaton’s north shore a World Heritage site; features include volcanic rock formations, Celtic stone sculptures, and historic castles.
Picture of woman swimmer with hair colored in green-blue.
A swimmer with compatibly colored hair comes up for air. On the lake’s bottom lie remnants from the past century: several World War II–era planes and other wartime rubble.

The lake’s long, skinny shape also invites some photographic tricks. Pályi always points her camera north to the horizon, and with only water in the background, the shore looks like a Hungarian impossibility: a beach beside an ocean. She also shoots on film with a 1950s-era Hasselblad 500 camera, adding a vintage aesthetic—because sometimes the past is the nicest lens through which to view the present.

At the resort town of Balatonboglár, a beach guard surveys the lake. Peak travel season in the summer lasts from June until late August.
Picture of inflatable raft leaping from the water.
The Hungarian sky and a runaway inflatable raft are reflected in the lake’s surface.

This story appears in the August 2021 issue of National Geographic magazine.