When photographer and storyteller Kiliii Yüyan received an open brief from Destination Canada to explore Alberta during the snowy winter months, he jumped at the opportunity. As one of National Geographic’s most respected voices in championing and highlighting the power of Indigenous cultures, wildlife and extreme environments, Kiliii brought his unique eye to the assignment creating images that truly capture the spirit of this magical time of year.
A snapshot of Kiliii’s adventure. Click an image to find out more.
To truly understand twilight you need to be outside. On his visit to Sundre, Alberta, Kiliii Yüyan joined Tracey Klettl on an evening snowshoeing hike. Klettl is co-owner of Painted Warriors – an Indigenous tourism operator sharing traditions and stories connected to Ojibwe Cree and Mohawk heritage. Her steady voice, beneath an increasingly starry sky, sets the tone for a tour which encourages guests to open their senses to connect with the natural world around them.
A group of European guests share warm drinks and learned experiences around a twilight campfire as part of the Painted Warriors Survival program. Through multi-day programs, participants obtain accredited outdoor training with an Indigenous survival skills lens that posits a unique approach to nature, Yüyan explains. “It's not about domination, but about relationships.”
At his cabin just outside of Edmonton, Métis Chef Brad Lazarenko prepares a feast that leans into Indigenous culinary staples. Bannock is toasted in a pan, later to be served with Saskatoon butter. Corn, beans and squash simmer in a rich beet sauce for "Three Sisters" stew, and a bison stew bubbles on an outdoor burner. The self-taught chef prides himself on offering an introduction to Indigenous culture through food. Travelers can taste it for themselves at the Culina Family of Restaurants and Catering.
Indigenous People in Canada hold an intimate knowledge of the land and on Mahikan Trails’s Medicine Walks, owner Brenda Holder takes guests on a walk through fields bearing juniper berries, golden rod, and spruce trees (whose needles can be used for tea), sharing the medicinal (and culinary) benefits they hold. Of Cree, Mohawk and Irish descent, Holder offers guests a personal understanding of how the land has supported people for generations.
A snow-dusted Abraham Lake provides the perfect surface for travelers looking for a one-of-a-kind experience. Local outfitter Nordegg Adventures brings Finnish hand sleds along on tours and when the mood strikes guests can take turns pushing and being pushed in the foothills of Elliott Peak.
Abraham Lake’s claim to fame is the methane bubbles that form beneath its surface. The bubbles are the result of gas expelled from bacteria, which feed on organic matter in the lake. The stacks of bubbles trapped under the icy surface are a visual wonder seemingly mirrored bypatterns in the starry sky above.
A twilight ice walk, with a guide who knows the area well, is the best way to take in the magic of Abraham Lake. The chilling temperatures and blustery winds on the surface of the man-made lake can make it a challenging adventure, but with lanterns in hand–and resting on the ice–at twilight, the lake transforms into a romantic natural marvel.
As the sun sets, its rays grow softer, and there’s a shift in the look of the Alberta plains. At first glance, the evergreen trees seem like dense forest, but as you get closer and the light shifts, they reveal their individuality. Taking in the landscape that stretches from small rivers up to the majestic Rocky Mountains, the world feels more open than it originally appeared.
Métis Crossing–a cultural and historical space, dedicated to the distinct Indigenous Nation, includes several cultural areas. Among them, the Red Barn where guests can see historical clothing and traditional trapper tools. From hand-beaded moccasins to the iconic Métis flag, the building offers visiting history enthusiasts a glimpse of the past, present and future of Métis people.
Light and shadow share space at twilight. For Yüyan, walking with 16-year-old Métis guide Alexis Fulton as part of the Tales from the Trapline experience was an opportunity to learn some of the key survival skills of Indigenous Peoples, and to see how that learning (from how to build a shelter out of forest materials to how to make a fire from flint and steel) are being passed down through the generations.
It’s not every day you happen upon white bison. The rare leucistic gene is present in both plains and wood bison at Métis Crossing Wildlife Park. The long, historic connection between Indigenous Peoples and buffalo can’t be overstated and significant efforts have been made to restore their numbers. Having 15 of the rare-gene bison here is something that is celebrated.
As the sky darkens over the Alberta plains, the stories of the sky shift as well. Respected Elders, like Lilyrose Meyers, help travelers connect with the spiritual aspects of the change through stories that have survived generations. “They call her a knowledge holder, which is a really important designation for any Indigenous group,” Yüyan explains. “Her stories would be a sacred line directly from her own parents and grandparents. These Oral Tradition stories hold the history and culture of her people.”
The colder the air, the crisper the color in the sky becomes. The eight Sky Domes at Métis Crossing allow guests to watch the magic happen through skylights over the beds. Whether it’s the bright colors of the aurora borealis or the star pathways visible only to a trained camera lens, Alberta’s clear winter skies make for uniquely spectacular views. “It's surprisingly hard to actually find a winter night sky that's clear,” says Yüyan. “You have to go to a place like Alberta to get a clear night sky.”
Past, present and future are themes that overlap and intertwine throughout these provinces. And on the plates at Pei Pei Chei Ow (“robin” in Omushkegowin or Swampy Cree language) in Edmonton, chef Scott Iserhoff plays with the concepts in his cuisine. Local traditional ingredients like wild duck and wild rice are combined with global culinary trends and techniques creating fine dining fusions.
