Heading to the Himalayas? Don’t skip Kathmandu

Spiritual yet entrepreneurial, ancient yet modern, Kathmandu — Nepal’s capital — crams a treasure trove of history and culture into its bazaar-tangled, butter-lamp-lit streets. Begin in Durbar Square, a collection of public and royal courtyards housing some of Asia’s most remarkable medieval architecture. Here, tiered rooftops and intricately carved timbers of landmark shrines — such as the towering Taleju Temple and the erotically illustrated Jagannath Temple — have remained largely unchanged since the 16th century. Stop to pay your respects at the statue of Kala Bhairab and the golden mask of Seto Bhairab — two fearsome incarnations of Shiva — before wandering towards the small Ashok Binayak Temple, where worshippers keep butter lamps burning for Ganesh, the elephant-headed remover of obstacles.

From there, it’s a short walk into the heart of Hanuman Dhoka, the former royal palace and ceremonial seat of Nepal’s monarchy until 2008. Take time to explore its courtyards, carved doorways and multi-storey pavilions, expanded under Prithvi Narayan Shah, the king who unified Nepal. If it’s open, climb Basantapur Tower for wide views across the old city’s rooftops.

Afterwards, descend back into the surrounding lanes and head south towards Freak Street (Jhochhen Tole), once the focus of Kathmandu’s 1960s hippie trail. Tucked down a quiet back alley amid modern coffee shops filled with Nepali students, the Snowman Cafe remains a holdover from that barefoot era, still serving apple pie from the same family recipe.

North of Durbar Square, you’ll find every form of Himalayan salt — white, pink and smoked black over charcoal — for sale in a variety of bazaars, alongside some of Kathmandu’s most captivating temples. At the market square, Indra Chowk, the four guardian lions of the Akash Bhairab Temple look out over bead vendors, sari and blanket traders and one of the city’s favourite lassi stalls.

To step off the main tourist route, follow a narrow lane (Chokhachhe Galli) beside the temple. It leads to Itum Bahal, a timeworn monastic courtyard edged by a 13th-century Buddhist monastery with a fascinating museum of Kathmandu’s history. Look out for the beaten copper panels on the walls, linked to a local legend of a child-eating demon appeased by locals with an annual feast. Cobbled bazaars stretch north east, jammed with rickshaws, motorcycles and Nepali women in crimson saris stocking up on groceries and supplies. Amid the hustle and bustle stands the courtyard temple of Jan Bahal, dedicated to Seto Machhendranath — a deity worshipped by Hindus and, in Buddhist tradition, known as Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion.

From Jan Bahal, it’s a five-minute walk north east into Ason Tole, one of Kathmandu’s busiest market squares, where traders of fragrant spices jostle with stalls selling vegetables, buffalo sukuti (jerky), rock salt, hard Himalayan cheese, dried lentils and noodles. Lording over the scene is the triple-tiered Annapurna Temple, dedicated to the local Newari goddess of abundance, whose bells are constantly set chiming by devotees.

To the north, narrow lanes lined with shops selling Tibetan silks and prayer flags wind towards Shree Gha, one of the valley’s great stupas. Set slightly above the surrounding streets, it offers a brief, quieter pause from the commotion; its golden-spired dome ringed by smaller shrines that blend Buddhist symbolism with Hindu yoni (womb) motifs representing female creative power. It’s worth the short detour for a glimpse of everyday devotion in a more contemplative setting.

Beyond lies Thamel, Kathmandu’s animated traveller quarter. Shops selling singing bowls, crystals and traditional Tibetan Buddhist scroll paintings rub shoulders with yoga studios and restaurants packed with trekkers celebrating the end of stamina-testing Himalayan hikes. It’s also an ideal spot to pause for sustenance, so try landmark restaurants such as Yangling and Utse for Tibetan-style momo dumplings, and Thamel House for set menus of traditional Newari dishes.

From Thamel, head west across the Bishnumati River to Swayambhunath, the ‘self-arisen’ stupa around which Kathmandu is said to have grown. Steps guarded by snack-pilfering rhesus macaques climb the hillside to a gleaming white dome, where the sound of spinning prayer wheels and chiming bells fill the air. From the golden spire atop the great stupa, the eyes of the Buddha gaze out across the Kathmandu Valley, as they have for centuries.