A guide to wadi-hopping in Oman

Oman is a quietly remarkable country at the southernmost tip of the Arabian Peninsula that takes you from one dizzying landscape — jagged mountain peaks, rolling desert dunes, ancient cities and fine sand beaches, to name but a few — to the next in a matter of hours. A far cry from the yacht-lined marinas and all-inclusive resorts of neighbouring Dubai, Oman attracts visitors — including an increasing number of solo travellers, particularly women, thanks to a growing reputation for safety and hospitality — keen to explore its rugged and comparatively untouched landscapes.

Something that makes the sultanate unique is its high concentration of wadis, which are found throughout Oman. Here’s our guide to seeing the best of them on one road trip.

What is a wadi?

Wadi means ‘valley’ in Arabic and relates to the dozens of rocky river gorges filled with water throughout Oman. These often strikingly turquoise natural pools are ideal for swimming, hiking, rock-climbing, abseiling and various other activities, depending on the individual landscape of the wadi. So extensive is this network of valleys and waterways that there isn’t a definitive list; some are so untouched that they’re hardly on the map at all; others attract hundreds of visitors every year.

What’s the best way to see wadis?

An increasingly common — and the most convenient — way to see the very best of Oman’s wadis is to embark on a wadi-hopping road trip.

The public transportation system in Oman will connect you to major cities, but it isn’t as reliable or as advanced as other countries in the Middle East. There are no trains, although Mwasalat operates a limited network of buses and ferries. As a result, renting a car is the easiest, most flexible way to wadi-hop.

You can prebook a rental car and collect it from your arrival airport, likely Muscat International Airport. It’s important to note that some wadis and mountainous regions are only accessible via 4WD vehicles, so make sure to select one at the time of booking.

When is the best time to go?

Many of Oman’s river gorges hold water year-round, but as with any trip to the country, you’ll want to visit during the months of October to March when the weather is milder and activities such as hiking are more doable. Still, daytime temperatures can range between 25C and 30C (although evenings in the mountains and deserts can get chilly), so you’ll want to begin any activities in the morning.

Plan to visit wadis as early as possible, to allow yourself time to hike or swim at your chosen pace away from the harsh midday sun. If you want the best chance of having the wadi to yourself, visit on a weekday before 8am. Make sure you also take note of the weather forecast — wadis should be avoided if rain is forecast, as flash flooding is common.

5 of the best wadis to visit on a road trip

1. Wadi Bani Khalid
Location: 2.5 hours from Muscat
GPS: Wadi Bani Khalid Parking Area
Difficulty: Easy-moderate

Ask any Omani for their favourite wadi, and you’ll likely hear the name Wadi Bani Khalid. Popular with locals and tourists alike, this wadi is one of the most accessible and developed on the list — there’s a WC and a small restaurant perched on the rocks.

The first pool, a striking oasis of emerald-green water framed by palm trees and the rugged, reddish contours of the Hajar Mountains, is just a short walk from the carpark over a stone path and narrow water channels called falaj. Here, you’ll often see families picnicking on the stony banks, or children playing in the shallow water.

Exploring further along the sandy-hued paths will take you to the second pool, where you’ll find small tents for changing into swimwear (charged at 100 baisa/20p). The small waterfalls here, cascading from one pool to another, are particularly beautiful. The water can be deep and the surrounding canyons are steep, but you’ll find ropes hanging from the rocks for when you get tired. Those hiking can continue to the upper canyon and Muqal Cave — hiking trails in Oman are often signposted by flag-like markers painted onto the rocks, comprised of stacked yellow, white and red stripes.

2. Wadi Shab
Location: 1 hour 40 minutes from Muscat
GPS: Wadi Shab (this should take you near enough to the car park, under the highway bridge)
Difficulty: Easy-moderate

Another deservedly popular wadi, Wadi Shab is reached first by a short boat ride through a river filled with lily pads (remember to bring cash, as this costs 1 rial/£1.95), before a two-mile trek which isn’t strenuous but requires some scrambling and can get slippery. Apart from some swaying date palms and local plantations along the first half-mile of the trail, the Wadi Shab hike is almost entirely surrounded by towering, honeyed canyon walls, which are particularly magnificent against the cerulean blue of the wadi waters.

Swimming ability is required here (as are water shoes), as to explore Wadi Shab’s various pools you’ll need to wade through some shallow waters as well as swim, for a short period of time, in some deeper waters. It’s worth it when you reach a small, cavernous opening, where the water is almost iridescent, and are greeted with a hidden cave with its own waterfall.

Once back in the parking lot, walk less than 10 minutes up the hill for a well-deserved lunch at Bait al Shab (GPS here), a charming guest house overlooking the Arabian sea, which used to be the owner’s grandfather’s house and once served as an inn for travellers arriving from the nearby towns and mountains on donkey. Sip mint tea in the pretty rose garden before tucking into a buffet of tabbouleh salad, spiced meats and vegetables, hummus and saffron rice.

From here, it’s a 20-minute drive to Bimmah Sinkhole, another popular spot for swimmers and photographers. While not technically a wadi, it’s one of the most accessible natural swimming pools in Oman and is simply reached via a long staircase.

3. Wadi Al Arbeieen
Location: 90 minutes from Muscat, 50 minutes from Bimmah Sinkhole
GPS: Coordinates 23.033652, 58.991539
Difficulty: Easy-difficult, depending on the route

Wadi Al Arbeieen, or Al Arbaeen, is a hidden gem, both in terms of its noticeable lack of visitors in comparison to Wadi Shab and Wadi Bani Khalid, and in a literal sense because it can be rather difficult to find. Many visitors find the lack of signage confusing and some off-roading is also required. You can find detailed route descriptions online if you want to brave it yourself, but you should consider booking a guide or a driver.

Once there, however, you’re rewarded with a beautifully untouched landscape and various routes offering different swimming pools, hiking trails and waterfalls to explore. Some of these hikes can last for most of the day and include adventure sports such as rock climbing and cliff-jumping — make sure to book in advance with a guide for these.

4. Wadi Tiwi
Location: 3.5 hours from Muscat
GPS: Wadi Tiwi Parking Place
Difficulty: Moderate-difficult

For the more adventurous, Wadi Tiwi is 7.5 miles further inland compared to Wadi Shab, and has different starting points and routes, depending on how much trekking you want to do. The most popular route is to park up one mile before the ancient Mibam village and hike for two to three hours through rocky landscape and local farms.

Once you reach the wadi, unique in its almost-tropical lushness, some bouldering and abseiling is required, using ropes to navigate down the rocks into the remarkably clear, turquoise waters. From here, you can swim through the pools to reach the spectacular Mibam waterfall. It’s recommended to book a guide who can help you navigate the terrain and route, as well as the at times challenging roads into the village.

5. Wadi Bani Awf
Location: 2.5 hours from Muscat
GPS: Wadi Bani Awf Crossing (whether you’re approaching from Al Batinah or Al Dakhiliyah, you’ll need a 4WD, but it’s highly recommended to visit with an experienced guide/ driver)
Difficulty: Difficult

Also known as Snake Canyon due to its winding shape (and not to be confused with Bimmah Sinkhole), Wadi Bani Awf is most popular among adventure sport and canyoning enthusiasts. Here, you can enjoy trekking, abseiling, cliff jumping and, of course, plenty of swimming, with pristine views over one of the most blissfully tourist-free wadis in Oman. There are two distinct routes, depending on which of the former activities takes your fancy, but both require going with a professional guide.