Summer in the Alps? For hikers, Austria's Gastein Valley is the place to start

At the end of May, as the snow melts on Austria’s mighty Salzburg Alps, the Gastein Valley springs to life. Cattle begin making their way to the alm (high mountain pastures), wildflower meadows bloom on hillsides and thawing ski slopes transform into more than 370 miles of hiking trails. Located 50 miles from Salzburg on the northern edge of Hohe Tauern National Park, it’s a region that offers unbridled adventure while still being rooted in rural traditions. Gastein Valley’s three biggest towns of Bad Gastein, Dorfgastein and Bad Hofgastein all offer easy access to the encircling mountains. However, the latter is the ideal base if time is short. After kicking off your walking boots, follow in the footsteps of 19th-century high society who flocked to bask in the area’s geothermal waters, known then as ‘the cure’ for their reputed healing powers. Flowing from the foot of Bad Gastein’s Graukogel mountain today, the valley’s mineral-rich springs are the perfect place to unwind after time spent in the mountains.

(For centuries, locals have been taking the waters of Bad Gastein—here's why you should too.)

Day 1: Hikes & hot springs

Morning

Catch the first gondola from Bad Hofgastein’s Schlossalm Station at 8.30am, floating above the spruce trees to reach the mountain shoulder of Schlossalm. Encompassed by peaks, it’s the starting point for many of the area’s best hikes, including the two-hour climb to the summit of Türchlwand at 2,577 metres. Follow the red-and-white markers, passing mountain buttercups and marmot burrows, before the trail steepens to a grassy slope dotted with patches of hard-packed snow. The ascent earns you spectacular views towards Großglockner — Austria’s highest mountain (3,798 metres). Take a guide (bookable at the Bad Hofgastein Tourist Office) if you’re not an experienced climber.

Afternoon

After a high-altitude picnic on Türchlwand’s crest (pre-order a packed lunch from your hotel or Café Zeit in Bad Hofgastein), descend back to Schlossalm for a hot chocolate on the terrace of Bergrestaurant Kleine Scharte, perched above the valley at 2,050 metres. If there’s energy for more hiking, veer east at the cable-car for the three-hour downhill trail to Bad Hofgastein, taking in forests, meadows and the tinkle of cowbells. You can hop aboard the Schlossalm cable-car at its middle station to cut the journey in half. Spend the rest of the afternoon with the mountains as your backdrop at Bad Hofgastein’s Alpentherme — nine acres of thermal pools and a swimming lake, naturally heated to between 32C and 36C.

Evening

Bad Hofgastein’s Saturday summer evenings unfurl in leisurely fashion at the restaurant and bar terraces on the main thoroughfare of Kaiser Franz Platz. Around the corner, Aiche is a modern but unpretentious restaurant opened last year by local chef Tobias Aichhorn, who honed his craft in Michelin-starred kitchens in Salzburg and Berlin. Set in a 15th-century home dating back to Gastein’s gold-mining heyday, the restaurant uses produce sourced from across the valley to recreate innovative versions of Austrian classics; try the wiener schnitzel stuffed with bacon, mushrooms and onions. It’s topped with a parsley mayonnaise and fresh herbs.

Day 2: Cycling & strudel

Morning

Come Sunday morning, smartly dressed locals can be seen in traditional lederhosen and dirndl on their way to mass at Bad Hofgastein’s Maria Himmelfahrt church. Pause to admire its 16th-century gothic architecture and imposing bell tower, en route to pick up wheels from Bike Gastein. After a quick training session, the entry-level e-bike tour powers upwards through the steep turns of Angertal — a side valley amid high-Alpine forests. Along the way, stop at peaceful meadows to gaze down across rooftops dotted alongside the Gasteiner Ache river. Beyond, the glaciers of the Ankogel mountains should be visible, 10 miles away. The wind will be in your sails for the return loop; whizz downwards past Alpine huts and century-old barns, inhaling the fresh mountain air.

Afternoon

Back in Bad Hofgastein’s centre, people-watch in the sun on Café Schwaiger’s terrace with a toastie followed by a slice of homemade strudel. There are several varieties of the traditional Austrian bake, ranging from classic apple to topfenstrudel — layers of flaky pastry filled with creamy quark cheese. After lunch, drop by the neighbouring town of Bad Gastein, which was founded on steep slopes during the area’s boom as a health resort. Its grand 19th-century hotel facades are a contrast to the predominantly rural Alpine architecture of Bad Hofgastein. The town is a 15-minute bus ride away, but the best way to arrive is via a scenic four-hour, seven-mile hike along the Gastein Trail, which connects the two towns on foot. Elevated above the valley floor, the route includes an impressive tunnel carved through Gadauner Gorge.

Evening

Arriving in Bad Gastein, the 341m Gasteiner Waterfall demonstrates nature’s full force, slicing its way down the middle of the hillside town in a blaze of surging glory. Stroll up to the central bridge on Kaiser Franz Josef Straße to get close enough to feel the spray that dampens the air. Take dinner beside an open fire at the cosy Bellevue Alm restaurant, which sits above the town and features a rustic bar lit by giant cowbells fashioned into lamps. Comfort dishes on the menu include kasnocken — an Austrian take on mac-and-cheese. For dessert, don’t miss the kaiserschmarrn — caramelised pancake pieces, flambéed in Grand Marnier and topped with plum compote.

Six more outdoor wellness activities

1. Herbal walks

Identify and collect wild camomile, woodland strawberries and horse chestnut while discovering their medicinal properties — as well as the odd Austrian old wife’s tale — wandering the meadows on the edge of Bad Hofgastein alongside a herbal practitioner.

2. Yoga

In the stillness of Bad Hofgastein’s Kurpark with the grass between your toes and the mountains at your back, instructor Fia Sonora will lead you through gentle stretches and poses, bringing you into the present.

3. Forest-bathing brunch

Start Sunday morning with an hour’s mindful walk through Angertal’s spruce forests, taking in birdsong and the sounds of the stream, ahead of a seven-course chef-prepared feast amid the woodland.

4. Moonlight hikes

When the full moon illuminates the high meadows of Sportgastein valley, join former national park ranger Hans Naglmayr for an atmospheric night walk. Listen to his tales of the landscape, then soak in the silence of the mountains. The event runs monthly on Saturdays from May to November; book in advance at the Bad Gastein Tourist Office.

5. Wild swimming

There’s no shortage of warm water pools in both Bad Gastein and Bad Hofgastein — the word ‘Bad’ denotes a spa town in German. However, travel further into the surrounding mountains and you’ll find cold-water lakes for mind-clearing dips. Palfnersee is particularly scenic and is reached via gondola to the Graukogel mountain station, followed by a hike through a fragrant centuries-old pine forest.

6. Trail running

Gastein Valley has long drawn trail runners to its paths, hosting the Adidas Terrex Infinite Trails championship every September. It’s not just a sport for seasoned pros — Berglift Hotel offers beginners guided runs through the valley. For a post-run wind down, hit the sauna at Alpentherme.