The inside guide to Malaysia's ultimate food city

George Town doesn’t hide its history in museums. It unfolds in the colour of its streets, the chatter of its shophouses and the bold flavours of its kitchens. Perched on Malaysia’s northwestern coast along the Malacca Strait, the city took shape over centuries of migration, from Indian Muslim merchants and Chinese settlers to Peranakan families, European traders and more. Today, it’s a place shaped by faith, flair and, most famously, food.

Coffee makes the perfect introduction. Pause Mood serves speciality brews in a beautifully restored shophouse with tiled floors and soft lighting, while Swee Kong Coffee Shop — a no-frills spot on a street lined with hawker stalls — offers something more traditional. Pull up a plastic chair, order a kopi and watch the neighbourhood stir to life.

Street food is at the beating heart of the city, so be sure to sample hokkien mee (a group of noodle dishes) from the stall facing Solok Moulmein street, then cross the road for char koay teow (a smoky, savoury stir-fried dish). The cook here perches on a cool box, taking orders in a worn notebook as his wok spits and hisses with promise. Pair the noodles with teh tarik, a sweet, frothy ‘pulled’ milk tea and a local morning staple.

For more street-side hits, head to 888 Hokkien Mee for noodles topped with roast pork and lamb satay. Then look left: a small side stall serves an oyster omelette that makes for a perfect accompaniment. No 5 Char Koay Teow is another favourite offering bold takes on Penang classics, piling its dishes high with duck eggs and blood cockles.

Some flavours demand a detour. For assam laksa, head to Kim’s Laksa on the far side of the island. Unlike the creamy coconut versions found elsewhere in Malaysia, this noodle soup is sharp, tangy and fragrant with mackerel. Back in George Town, seek out nasi kandar at Hameediyah Restaurant. This is the oldest and most revered place to sample the Tamil Muslim dish of rice drenched in curry. Pair it with nutmeg juice: subtly spiced, with a flavour somewhere between cola and cinnamon.

Fine dining in George Town is no less rooted in heritage. Housed in the city’s Hin Bus Depot, Michelin-starred Restaurant Au Jardin sees chef Kim Hock Su reimagining Penang ingredients with playful precision. The seafood tasting menu features dishes such as wild-caught barracuda dressed with pandan oil, and prawns served with fermented beetroot jelly, seaweed and a fish-roe emulsion. At Communal Table by Gen, heritage flavours also get a modern twist — think shrimp paste-stuffed chicken wings and aged Penang duck with nutmeg jam.

Lucky Hole is another celebrated spot. Helmed by 2025 Michelin Guide Young Chef Award winner Waymann Cheon, it applies a European lens to Malaysian produce. Just around the corner, CEKI Nyonya leans into the fragrant marriage of Chinese technique and Malay flavour, while The Teochew Club takes a more nostalgic path, focusing on the delicate, slow-braised dishes central to Teochew cooking.

As night falls, George Town lights up with a thriving bar scene. Backdoor Bodega — the city’s most famous ‘accidental’ bar — began as a late-night hangout behind a clothes shop and now ranks among the world’s finest, recently winning Best Cocktail Menu in the ‘50 Best’ awards. Nearby, a constellation of favourites awaits, from The Suckling Pig, BISO and Chez Chez to minimalist Small Places, with its concrete walls and potent coffee cocktails. Round off the night with a boozy scoop at Drunken Gelato, and when everything else has closed, follow the locals for a towering Ramily burger from Alan Burger Gurney Corner.