Where to find the best Delta tamales, from Arkansas to Mississippi
Meaty, spicy and hot off the hob, a local take on this Latin American favourite can be found right across the Mississippi Delta.
Compared to the typical Latin American tamale — a corn-based mixture steamed in a corn husk or banana leaf — the Mississippi Delta’s iteration is smaller, spicier, meatier and often simmered rather than steamed. Some say the dish came from Mexican migrants or soldiers in the Mexican American war; its origins may lie in Native American cuisine, or hail from the African dish, kush — cornbread hash. The flavours are as varied as the backstory — here are some of the best places to try them.
1. Doe’s Eat Place
Greenville, Mississippi
Located in Greenville — the self-titled ‘Tamale Capital of the World’ — Doe’s Eat Place is a cut above. Like most standout spots in the Delta, the crummier the architecture the better the food. The front door opens into the kitchen where you’ll be escorted past sizzling cast-iron skillets. But don’t be fooled — this modest shack is a top-notch steakhouse where you can pair your tamales with a gargantuan rib-eye. Unlike most Delta tamales, Doe’s version is wrapped in wax paper instead of corn husk, filled with high-quality cuts of beef.
2. Rhoda’s Famous Hot Tamales and Pies
Lake Village, Arkansas
Just across the Mississippi River from Greenville, Rhoda Adams sells Delta-style tamales from her shack in Lake Village. She credits her aunt with the recipe: a hearty combination of beef, chicken fat and cumin. Leave space to try the pies, too — particularly the half sweet potato, half pecan.
3. Delta Meat Market
Cleveland,Mississippi
Mississippi native Cole Ellis’s butcher’s shop, restaurant, bar and grocer specialises in Southern foods, plating refined regional cuisine including tamales stewed in stock, served in the rich-bodied broth. Short on time? The grocery sells them vacuum-packed.
4. White Front Cafe, aka Joe’s Hot Tamale Place
Rosedale, Mississippi
The chipped white facade doesn’t exactly scream culinary gem, but owner Barbara Pope’s tamales certainly do. The only option is hot beef, served in portions of six. Each day Barbara hand-rolls batches and visitors often devour a portion before ordering more, frozen, to take home. white-hot-tamale-place.
5. Abe’s BBQ and Tamales
Clarksdale, Mississippi
Opened by a Lebanese immigrant in 1924, Abe’s has been dishing out quality barbecue and tamales since before music made Clarksdale famous. Still run by the same family, it’s a quintessential barbecue joint, with wooden booths and beverages in Styrofoam cups. Sidle up to a barstool and order half-a-dozen original-recipe saucy tamales with a side of slaw.
6. Ground Zero Blues Club
Clarksdale, Mississippi
Situated in a 100-year-old cotton grading warehouse, this Morgan Freeman-owned restaurant and music venue is a celebration of Clarksdale culture. Live music is reason enough to visit, but the fried Delta tamales are showstoppers.
To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).