New cultural draws and natural highs are making Abu Dhabi an attractive city break

Less well known than its wild-child sister — Dubai, which lies 80 miles north east along the coast — the capital of the United Arab Emirates is rapidly becoming one of the region’s most exciting cities. While it’s still the cradle of the Emirates’ oil industry, with all the glass towers, designer-filled malls and corporate headquarters to match, lately it has built a reputation for offering travellers an authentic glimpse of Emirati heritage. And now is the time to plan a visit, with a glittering crop of new galleries and museums set to open soon — and plenty more adventurous options for those keen to explore.

The beach is never far away here. Spread across several isles in a natural archipelago, the city offers the chance to kick off your shoes and paddle off Saadiyat Island’s golden sands, go kayaking in the mangroves or simply unfurl a picnic blanket on the Corniche — a waterfront promenade and one of its loveliest sunset spots. Much of the coast is a dedicated wildlife reserve frequented by dolphins, turtles and migrating flamingos. The islands here are connected by several bridges and you can traverse the entire city in as little as 20 minutes by taxi.

Downtown Abu Dhabi’s skyscrapers can feel impersonal and hard to appreciate initially. But persistence is rewarded: its magic lies in its less polished corners. There’s the WaveBreaker promenade where Emirati couples spend long afternoons feeding the seagulls, and the family-run sweetshops at Mina Market near Zayed Port, whose proprietors won’t let you leave without fistfuls of complimentary medjool dates.

As well as Emiratis, Abu Dhabi is populated by people from more than 200 countries, and multiculturalism is in its DNA. Every evening, the cafes on Saadiyat Island’s Mamsha Beach fill with countless languages as groups of locals gather over Turkish coffee and Indian samosas. Its seafront is busy with rollerbladers, joggers and e-scooting Emiratis, their kandura robes billowing in the breeze.

The UAE’s heritage is also a source of immense pride and perhaps easier to tap into here than in Dubai. Take Qasr Al Hosn, an 18th-century fort sitting incongruously amid Downtown’s glass and steel, where Emirati women demonstrate traditional palm-weaving and thread-spinning crafts. Dressed in flowing abaya robes and battoulah face-coverings, they keep the old ways alive — a glimpse of the nation before its 1960s oil boom, back when locals relied on fishing, trading and pearl-diving to make a living.

Ever-growing, the city’s focus is currently on Saadiyat Island, which later this year is set to open a Guggenheim designed by Frank Gehry and a vast museum dedicated to Sheikh Zayed, the nation’s founding father. They will join the teamLab Phenomena contemporary art gallery, which opened in April, and the celebrated Louvre Abu Dhabi.

What to see and do

Saadiyat Island: Not content with having the best beach in the city, Saadiyat Island is also the epicentre of Abu Dhabi’s art scene — home to the Louvre Abu Dhabi, and soon the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi and the Zayed National Museum. The Louvre’s exhibits range from Van Gogh’s brooding Self Portrait (1887) to Ai Weiwei’s striking Fountain of Light, amid 23 themed galleries. It’s all set beneath a giant dome of 7,850 ‘stars’.

The Corniche: On Abu Dhabi island, running the length of its main waterfront, the Corniche is a traffic-free haven of leafy parks, golden sands and immaculately kept trails. If you enjoy staying active, this is an energising setting for running and walking, with a formidable backdrop of skyscrapers.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque: A short taxi ride east from the Corniche, the UAE’s largest mosque dazzles with crystal chandeliers, intricate geometric patterns and lashings of 24-carat gold — but its spiritualism shines through, too. It can host up to 50,000 worshippers, and also welcomes non-Muslims with informative tours of its jaw-dropping architecture, and Islamic art workshops for all ages. The exterior is an opus of 82 pure white marble domes and soaring gold-tipped archways.

Qasr Al Watan: With its marble columns, buffed gold leaf and glittering mosaics, Abu Dhabi’s city-centre presidential palace elevates traditional Arabic design. When you’re done taking in the decor, browse its gallery of diplomatic gifts from other nations, which include silver daggers, and see the lavish quarters where the sheikhs host visiting rulers. Military bands perform outside every Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 4pm.

Mina Zayed: To appreciate Abu Dhabi’s maritime heritage, visit one of its most historic quarters — Mina Zayed. Mina means ‘port’ in Arabic, and this is where you’ll find the dhow harbour where traditional wood-built fishing boats rest, as well as Mina Market’s sweets, dates and nuts shops, and the busy seafood restaurants surrounding its fish market. It’s located on the main island’s northernmost tip and is all walkable.

Jubail Mangrove Park: You don’t have to venture far from the city to embrace Abu Dhabi’s wild side. A five-minute taxi ride from Saadiyat Island, this natural mangrove forest is a haven for sea turtles, herons, flamingos — and adventure-seeking travellers. Its rangers lead nature-watching walks on its overwater promenade, as well as kayaking trips on the water.

Where to go shopping

Mina Market: Next year, this charmingly ramshackle food market will move to a souk-styled new-build — so the time to visit is now. It’s around eight minutes’ drive from the Corniche. One street specialises in dates and Arabic sweets (go to Green Lawn Dates for the plumpest medjools), while the hectic fruit market is piled high with Yemeni mangoes, Iranian pomegranates and more.

Ether by cloud spaces: On Yas Island, amid Yas Mall’s prolific high-street names, this shop stands out for its Emirati-designed and crafted homewares, clothes and ceramics. It stocks over 100 brands, many of which are found nowhere else in the city: think candles infused with oud fragrance and hand-painted Arabic coffee cups. Prices are reasonable.

Abu Dhabi Heritage Village: Thread-spinning, pottery-throwing and twisting palm fronds into handbags, fans, trinket boxes and more: these are the UAE’s time-honoured crafts, preserved in Abu Dhabi’s Heritage Village. It’s on the opposite side of the water from the Corniche and designed to look like a traditional neighbourhood — complete with mudbrick towers and palm-woven market stalls. You can buy pieces directly from the Emirati women who made them.

Where to eat

Phsphorus Kadoura Seafood: Adjoining the fish market at Port Zayed, Kadoura puts the UAE’s bounty of fresh seafood in the spotlight — and the feast begins with complimentary cups of fish chowder. Giant shrimps and chilli-dusted hammour fish are served on smoking charcoal grills, alongside platters piled high with fattoush salads, velvety hummus and fried calamari. Superb value.

Grand Beirut: On weekend mornings, Grand Beirut’s terrace is packed with Emirati families brunching on Lebanese dishes and enjoying views of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Dip your saj flatbread into garlicky ful medames (fava beans), creamy labneh yoghurt, and chickpeas stewed in cumin and lime — and finish with the signature mille-feuille dessert, topped with pistachio-dusted candy floss.

Al Fanar: Al Fanar specialises in home-style Emirati cooking, such as plump prawns smothered in tomato-rich magli sauce, and chicken machboos (a rice dish) simmered with dried lemon and cardamom. Save room for the sweet legaimat dumplings, served drizzled in date syrup. It’s located in Yas Mall and its vintage UAE photographs, eclectic crockery and ornate archways make it feel like a time capsule.

Like a local

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque: Try to be first in the queue for the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, as it quickly gets busy with tour groups later in the day. Or wait until it’s quieter after dark, when it’s lit up in colours that reflect the lunar phases — white light around a full moon, becoming bluer as it wanes. For the best chance of taking panoramic photos of the mosque, head to Wahat Al Karama war memorial across the road, which has the ideal view; entry is free.

Yas Marina Circuit: When it’s not filled with screaming supercars and crowds of loudly cheering fans for the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix, Yas Marina Circuit’s three-mile race track opens to walkers, cyclists and joggers on Monday and Wednesday evenings. It’s completely free to visit, and you’ll be exercising alongside local people from all walks of life.

Qasr Al Hosn: At the 18th-century fortress of Qasr Al Hosn, be sure not to miss the House of Artisans next door — your ticket grants entry to both. Here, local Emirati women demonstrate traditional palm-frond weaving, talli thread-spinning and the time-honoured ritual of preparing Arabic coffee from scratch. Check the demonstration timings when you enter Qasr Al Hosn for more on what’s on that day.

After hours

Ray’s Bar: On the 62nd storey of Conrad Etihad Towers near the western end of the Corniche, Ray’s Bar is one of Abu Dhabi’s top spots for sundowners. Its Cachuca Sour cocktails, with tangy passion fruit and jalapeño-infused cachaça, are just as enlivening as the city-wide views. This hotel bar is open to non-guests.

Yas Bay: From October to May when the weather is loveliest, this seafront promenade hosts night markets, live music and cultural festivals, and its popular restaurants spill out onto the pavement. It’s also a five-minute walk from Etihad Arena, which hosts the biggest names in pop, rock and comedy.

Al Quaa: If you’ve got time for a night away from the city, do as locals do and drive south into the desert for an hour to reach Al Quaa — known as the ‘Milky Way spot’ for its minimal light pollution and magnificent celestial views. Arabian Wanders offers desert camping trips with gear, guides and meals provided, plus a stargazing session and campfire games.

Where to stay

Courtyard World Trade Center: Within walking distance of Qasr Al Hosn and the Corniche, this budget-friendly hotel has a pool on its rooftop — ideal for cooling off while admiring Downtown’s glass skyscrapers. Breakfast features Middle Eastern and Indian specialities — don’t miss the cardamom-spiced chai.

Fairmont Bab Al Bahr: On Khor Al Makta creek, with views across the water to the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, the Fairmont is well placed for sightseeing. A sandy beach runs the length of the hotel, and there are local touches like Arabic coffee in the lobby and shisha on the terrace.

Jumeirah Saadiyat Island: On Abu Dhabi’s most popular beach — a reserve where turtles nest from March to June — this swish resort is just a 10-minute taxi ride from Saadiyat Island’s cultural district. There are multiple pools, a watersports centre for paddleboarding and kayaking, and a beach bar: the ideal sunset spot after a day exploring the Louvre neighbours.