What the locals are doing in Seville this spring, from Alfalfa shopping to jazz nights
Join Sevillanos enjoying their city as the weather warms this spring, with art exhibitions in unusual locations and paddling trips along the river.
Seville is at its prettiest in the spring. Between March and early April, ornamental orange trees bloom across the capital of Spain’s southern Andalucia region, bringing a fresh scent to the winding alleyways of its medieval centre. The temperature, often sweltering in the summer months, hovers at a pleasant 20C. It’s also when the city puts on its biggest and most famous festival, Feria de Abril (April Fair), a week-long event featuring traditional Sevillanas dancing, parades of horse-drawn carriages and local specialities served from colourful casetas (marquees). We round up some of the best spots to experience the city like a local.
Paddle the river
With the days lengthening, Sevillanos take to the water, embracing the gentle pleasure of paddleboarding. Gliding through the historic centre on a branch of the Guadalquivir gives an entirely new perspective on the city. A sunset outing is especially popular, with the sky’s pink glow reflected in the water.
Dive into a jazz session
Flamenco is the music tradition most associated with Seville, but the city also has a thriving jazz scene. Gallo Rojo is a welcoming, light-infused space loved by locals for its chilled, unpretentious vibe and full programme of quality performers. It’s near the giant, mushroom-like structure of Las Setas.
See art in a former monastery
La Cartuja is worth visiting for its storied past alone, but it’s also a vital cultural complex for Sevillanos. Founded as a monastery, it also served as accommodation for Christopher Columbus before he set sail for the Americas and it later became a ceramics factory. It started its new life as a contemporary arts centre in 1990. The Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo (CAAC) runs a varied programme, with exhibitions, jazz concerts and DJ sessions alongside its permanent contemporary art collection.
Go shopping in the Alfalfa district
Seville’s creative scene is booming and Alfalfa is its focus. New artisan store La Coleccionista has gained a loyal following. The cult must-haves are ‘The Sevillaner’ posters depicting tropes of city life, as well as quirky illustrated maps by Carolina Saiz. A few doors down, Tenderete offers gorgeous ceramics; popular pieces include blue-and-white Hispano-Islamic fish plates. Nearby gallery Espacio Derivado is a focal point for up-and-coming artists, hosting intriguing art installations and cultural events.
Catch culture in an old cannon factory
The city’s latest industrial heritage project, this vast 18th-century artillery factory, located in the San Bernardo neighbourhood east of the centre, opened in 2024 as the Real Fábrica de Artillería. Much of the complex remains unused but the parts open to the public host concerts, plays and exhibitions. The huge indoor spaces where weapons were once produced retain their character, their vaulted ceilings still bearing a rich patina of foundry oven soot.
Hit the rooftop
Sevillanos can’t resist three elements at Pura Vida Terraza bar, atop Los Seises Sevilla hotel. First, a roof terrace under impossibly blue skies. Second, views of the Giralda, a 12th-century minaret-turned-bell tower. Third, the Sunday-night flamenco performances that end the weekend on a high.
Drink like the Romans
Hispalia is drawing in locals interested in the city’s Roman culinary past. The stall in Encarnación Market serves wine as the Romans enjoyed it, using old grape varieties and ancient techniques. It also offers food- and wine-tastings, and cooking classes.
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