This Seychelles cruise skips the resorts and goes off-grid

Perfect palms arcing over white, fine-grain sand; smooth, sparkling granite boulders rising along the rainforest-clad coastline; and crystalline waters as far as the eye can see — Seychelles rightly lives up to its name as one of the world’s most idyllic escapes. An archipelago made up of 115 islands, the Indian Ocean nation located off the eastern coast of Africa has long lured travellers thanks to its superlative natural beauty and enticing mix of Creole, French and English heritage.

Uninhabited until 1770, when the French established a settlement here, and independent since 1976, Seychelles is one of the youngest nations in Africa — but, thanks to a small population and a focus on luxury tourism and fishing, it’s also one of the wealthiest. As a result, a crop of luxury fly-and-flop resorts have appeared over the years, drawing travellers from far and wide. Many visitors stick to the flashy resorts on the main islands, Mahé, Praslin or La Digue, or arrive on a cruise, never venturing beyond. But in doing so, they miss the chance to explore Seychelles’ quieter side: its uninhabited isles, secluded coves and, thanks to the country’s strong commitment to conservation, some of the world’s most pristine snorkelling spots.

Now, with personalised itineraries and dedicated crew, a new luxury Ponant catamaran offers travellers an opportunity to uncover the secrets of the archipelago one island at a time.

The experience

For those looking to escape the restraints of routine, this small-ship expedition is a great way to do so. There’s no scheduled itinerary, activities or obligations. Instead, the journey is planned with the help of captain Harold Antoine and his deputy Shanyl Changtime, who consider weather conditions as well as guest preferences to design a highly personalised route, exploring both the best — and lesser-known — aspects of Seychelles.

The voyage begins from the main island of Mahé but after that, where you go is up to you. La Digue is one of the archipelago’s most renowned destinations, popular with travellers for its rugged interior and colourful clutch of traditional Creole houses. Here, guests can take a cycling tour of the island to visit L’Union Estate, a former vanilla and coconut plantation now housing a thoughtfully curated museum. For those feeling more adventurous, there’s a variety of hikes, from guided treks to remote, jungle-fringed beaches or routes that lead into the island’s wild interior and the natural saltwater pool at Anse Marron.

On Curieuse Island, guests can walk among giant Aldabra tortoises, which roam freely in a protected sanctuary. Some tortoises here are more than a century old, their massive shells marked by time and their pace deliberate and unbothered. A short trail leads through mangroves and a coastal forest to a secluded beach where these giants roam, with granite rocks tumbling down to the sea and hermit crabs scuttling in the sand.

Other suggested itineraries include Cousin, a sanctuary for nesting endemic bird species, as well as the six islands of Saint-Anne Marine Park, a place of cultural and natural importance to Seychelles. Here, guests will find a marine protected area — the first of its kind in the Indian Ocean, established in 1973 — and the site of the first French settlement on Sainte Anne Island.

There’s also the opportunity to visit two of the Seychelles’ most photographed beaches, Anse Source d’Argent and Anse Coco, where pale turquoise shallows lap at white sands and palm trees rise up between the granite boulders, their trunks bowing in the wind.

It’s safe to say the sea is a constant presence throughout the trip — warm and clear enough to observe marine life from the catamaran itself. Though with bath-warm waters, you’ll want to dive in yourself. Thankfully, snorkelling is a daily highlight. The underwater scenery near uninhabited Cocos Island is exceptional: expect parrotfish scraping algae from the reef, swirling shores of zebrafish and surgeonfish, as well as clouds of various species of butterflyfish flitting around the coral. With a bit of good luck, travellers might even encounter a pod of dolphins, shy reef sharks or hawksbill turtles gliding through. In protected bays, where the boat anchors, every landing feels like discovering an untouched pocket of the world no one’s seen before.

Each day ends with the same quiet ritual. As the sun dips low, the catamaran’s deck becomes a front-row seat to the Indian Ocean’s transformation. Shades of gold melt into lavender skies, the horizon blazes orange, and the silhouettes of fruit bats, their wings outstretched like kites, pass overhead.

Hostess Murcianne Mondon is on hand to serve evening aperitifs, including Champagne and mojitos with a tropical twist, while chef John Rosette cooks up a feast of local delicacies. Served family-style, the dishes shine with bold local flavours — from baked red snapper and tamarind-glazed ribs to zesty lemon and herb scallops, or a rich Creole crab curry that captures the essence of island cooking.

Then comes the nightly show — as darkness falls, the sky slowly fills with stars, while the gentle sway of the boat and a steady flow of drinks set the scene for conversations that stretch late into the night. Aboard Spirit of Ponant, time seems to loosen its grip. There’s no fixed itinerary, only the invitation to settle into the rhythm of the surrounding ocean.

The stay

The 77ft Lagoon 77 catamaran is the ideal vessel for the slow, unhurried exploration of the archipelago. There’s no dress code onboard, not even the need to wear shoes, yet every detail is carefully thought through. The Spirit of Ponant has six guest cabins accommodating a maximum of 12 guests. They’re spacious for a small vessel, with a private bathroom, large double or twin beds and a surprising amount of storage should light packing not come naturally. Subtle, sea-faring inspired decor, natural wood finishes and soft lighting give each cabin a homely touch, while panoramic windows allow for wildlife-watching from the comfort of your bed.

There’s lots of open-air lounging areas on board, including a flybridge with daybeds, plus nets at the bow, which serve as ideal spots for reading a book as the sun sinks below the horizon.

Travellers who struggle to sit still can take full advantage of a range of equipment, including paddleboards, wakeboards and even wing foil sets — though it’s worth noting that wing foiling, a watersport that blends windsurfing, kiteboarding and hydrofoiling, is a lot harder than it looks and is perhaps best suited to those with some prior experience. Meanwhile, those with a fondness for fishing can try their hand at catching dinner (think tuna-like dorado, also known as mahi mahi, and silvery bonefish) with the help of the fixed rod at the back of the boat.

What truly sets this experience apart is the people. With just four crew members, there’s a deeply personal feel to the voyage, offering the comforts of a five-star hotel without the formality. Guests just have to settle in, relax and feel the warm, tropical breeze as the boat glides toward its next anchorage.