How to experience the raucous spirit of Cologne’s Carnival

Ask anyone who lives in Cologne what their favorite thing to do is, and chances are they will say “Karneval.” During Cologne Carnival (Kölner Karneval), over a million costumed revelers fill the streets, including children shouting,“kamelle (candy),” as people on parade floats throw candy to the crowd, and a straw effigy burns to absolve revelers of their sins.  

Cologne Carnival is the largest carnival celebration in Germany, and is often referred to as the “fifth season” because the massive city-wide celebration begins every year on November 11 at 11:11 a.m. and peaks during the “crazy days,” from Weiberfastnacht (Fat Tuesday) to Ash Wednesday. The significance of the number 11 has different origins, including that November 11 was also St. Martin’s Day, a religious holiday that marked the end of the harvest and was traditionally a time for feasting and celebrations.

In Cologne, the six days before Ash Wednesday, known as the “crazy days,” kick off Carnival with parades, music, parties, and spontaneous celebrations in bars and in neighborhoods around the city.

“There are over 50 parades just during those days,” says Tanja Holthaus, press spokesperson for the Cologne Carnival committee. “It’s the most interesting time for tourists because they can just be in the streets and experience it.”

The historic roots of Carnival in Germany

 The history of Carnival in Germany dates to the 13th century. “The roots of Carnival lie in the Middle Ages, when the rules of the Church were still very important to people,” says Johanna Cremer, a curator at the Cologne City Museum. “The Cologne term for Carnival, Fastelovend, refers to this origin—the evening before fasting.”

Similar to “crazy days,” Fastelovend was a series of celebrations leading up to Lent (a period of fasting and repentance), during which people could indulge and break from the strict social order.

These festivities evolved over the centuries. During the Baroque period, under the influence of courtly culture from France and Italy, carnival was celebrated with extravagant masked balls and parades, whereas Shrovetide celebrations continued amongst the commoners.

During the French occupation of Cologne, carnival was temporarily banned in 1795 because it was seen as a threat to public peace and order. In 1815, after Cologne was incorporated into Prussia following the French occupation, Carnival was reinstated and reorganized. Nearly seven years later, a group of local middle-class citizens revived the Cologne Carnival. 

“In 1823, a festordnendes comité (festival organizing committee) planned a [Rose Monday] parade for the first time,” says Cremer. The centralized organization also enabled better police supervision of the festival and avoided a ban on Carnival by the Prussian rulers.”

This new form of Carnival marked the beginning of modern celebrations, and its early themes of breaking away from social order, challenging hierarchy, and uniting the community. Today, Carnival consists of 30,000 volunteers, 400 Carnival associations, and, of course, the official organizing committee.

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Pre-Lent and Cologne Carnival festivities 

Thursday, the first of the so-called “crazy days” leading up to Lent, is known as Weiberfastnacht or the Women’s Carnival, where women cut off men's ties as a symbol of power reversal. The women sometimes reward obliging men with a bützchen, or friendly peck on the cheek, a less common tradition today.  

Most revelers head to the Alter Markt at 11:11 a.m., where Carnival’s three figureheads—the Prince, the Maiden, and the Peasant—officially kick off the festival. In the afternoon, following a performance of a historical play, the first parade starts at Chlodwigplatz in Südstadt—the district south of the Old Town—and ends along An St. Agatha in the city center. Celebrations in bars, pubs, and streets continue into the night. It’s not uncommon to hear shouts of “Kölle Alaaf!”, a cheer of local pride during Carnival that means,“Cologne above all else.” 

On Friday evening, first-time revelers shouldn’t miss the Star March, when groups from different neighborhoods converge in the city center for music and entertainment.

“There's a lot of Carnival dances and songs, mostly in Kölsch, the Cologne dialect,” says Holthaus. “They’re about Cologne and how much we all love the city.”

On Saturday and Sunday, ongoing festivities range from local parties to smaller, family-friendly neighborhood parades. The second-largest parade of the festival, Schull- und Veedelszöch, is a spirited community event held on Sunday and features schools and local clubs that create their own costumes and floats.

The Rose Monday parade marks the culmination of the Cologne Carnival. An almost five-mile line of floats, as well as dance and music groups, proceeds through the city center, where, along the way, 12,000 participants throw 730 pounds of candy and 300,000 flowers to the crowd. The route starts at Chlodwigplatz in Südstadt and ends on Gregorius-Maurus-Straße.

Spectators transform the city into a sea of colorful, eclectic attire, from zip-up onesies to handmade clown or jester outfits, while shouts of “kamelle” (candy) and “strüßjer” (flowers) fill the air. Keep an eye out for floats with political messages and caricatures; the first Rose Monday parade in 1823 included floats and costumes that satirized Cologne’s Prussian rulers, and that tradition of political commentary is still a significant part of Carnival today. 

Carnival festivities conclude on Violet Tuesday—likely named after the color associated with penitence in Christianity. This is the day of the Nubbel, a straw doll hung above the front of some bars and pubs. In the evening, the residents take the straw dolls down and bring them to a specific location in each neighborhood for a Nubbel-burning ceremony. This tradition marks not only the end of Carnival, but also the absolution of any misdeeds committed during the festival.

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Travel tips for Cologne Carnival

Travelers planning a trip to Cologne should consider arriving a few days before Carnival to visit the city’s top attractions, such as Museum Ludwig, Philharmonic Hall, and the Gothic Cologne Cathedral. First-time revelers shouldn’t experience Carnival without a costume; so, stop by a costume shop to find the right fit.

To experience Cologne’s beer culture, head to a traditional brewery pub such as Peters Brauhaus or Fruh am Dom, both centrally located.  Here, visitors can sample Kölsch, a protected, pale, top-fermented beer originating in Cologne. Remember to cover your glass with a coaster when you’re finished, otherwise the server will return with another round. 

Cologne is a compact city, so wherever you stay will likely be easily accessible. Most of the Carnival celebrations are in Old Town, in the heart of the city; so, you may opt to stay in a quieter neighborhood, such as Deutz, Ehrenfeld, or Südstadt. Travelers who want to stay in Cologne’s hip neighborhood with multiple bars should stay in the Belgian Quarter. 

Carnival parties require advance tickets (view a list of events here), but the best way to experience the festivities is with residents. Holthaus advises travelers to get the insider’s perspective and chat with locals to find the best ways to celebrate Cologne Carnival. 

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