Experience a slice of the Italian Riviera in this Welsh village

Portmeirion must be the most distinctive village in the UK. It’s a fairytale folly of pastel cottages, soaring spires and classical statuary; a slice of the Italian Riviera on the north Welsh coast. The passion project of amateur architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, Portmeirion was built in stages between 1925 and 1975 — not for residents but as an experiment to prove that buildings could enhance, rather than spoil, nature’s beauty. The result is as eclectic as it is colourful, the village’s shops, cafes and restaurants reflecting baroque, gothic and Arts and Crafts influences. The setting is equally enchanting. Portmeirion sits on a cliff side overlooking the tidal estuary where the River Dwyryd meets the sea, and beautiful coastal views can be enjoyed throughout the village. Enclosing it is the Gwyllt, a woodland stocked with gargantuan, exotic trees that thrive in Portmeirion’s balmy microclimate.

Can I spend the night in the village?

You can and should. Portmeirion has no permanent residents, with day-trippers required to depart by 6.30pm in summer and 5.30pm in winter, leaving overnight guests to amble the grounds during golden hour. Grab a drink on the Portmeirion Hotel’s terrace and watch dusk cast the sandbanks and coastal caves of the Dwyryd Estuary aglow. The hotel itself is a luxurious property with an art deco feel — particularly evident in the mosaiced bathrooms and sleek bar and restaurant. There’s also a heated outdoor pool.

Alternatives include the looming Castell Deudraeth, a faux fortress whose crenellations shelter suites and guest rooms are decked out in local oak and slate. The cosiest options, however, are the Village Rooms and self-catering cottages scattered among Portmeirion’s distinctive buildings.

What’s there to do in Portmeirion?

Top of the list is an architectural walking tour. Fans of cult 1960s sci-fi programme The Prisoner, which was filmed in Portmeirion, will enjoy spotting locations from the series, like the towering baroque-style Campanile Bell Tower; the Dome, also known as the Pantheon, topped with an elegant cupola; and the Town Hall, with its carved ceiling depicting the labours of Hercules. Just as captivating as the village itself is the forest that surrounds it, known as Y Gwyllt Woodlands. This subtropical forest has been planted with red-flowering Himalayan rhododendrons and ginkgo trees, woven through 19 miles of footpaths. Hidden in the forest, you’ll find a serene Japanese Garden and a dog cemetery, a resting place for beloved canine companions originally created by Adelaide Haig, who lived here before Portmeirion was built, on the Victorian estate of Aber Iâ. Beyond the village and the woods, the Dwyryd Estuary is a lovely place for a walk, with shifting sandbanks and a golden beach. Note that strong currents mean it’s best not to swim here.

Where to eat in Portmeirion

There are a couple of fantastic places to eat here, both offering traditional Welsh delicacies and the chance to spend time inside some of Portmeirion’s grandest buildings.

The village’s flagship restaurant is The Dining Room at the Portmeirion Hotel, open for lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. Welsh lamb is often on the menu, as is laverbread, a coastal classic made from foraged seaweed. The Dining Room overlooks the estuary and sits adjacent to the stone boat Amis Reunis, a Portmeirion landmark created by Williams-Ellis. It’s a replica of his own wooden vessel, a trading ketch which was stranded on an offshore sandbank.

The other main restaurant is the Brasserie at Castell Deudraeth, at the entrance to the village. This has a more casual feel, but a menu with a similar fusion of European and Welsh influences — highlights include aged Bala beef and succulent Anglesey oysters, while chalk stream trout is served en croute and local mussels are used for moules frites. You’ll find more informal options in the form of Caffi Glas Italian cafe and Caffi’r Angel gelato shop. The salted caramel is superb.