Visit Falmouth and you’ll experience a traditional Cornish seaside town embracing its creative side. A pageant of history has sailed through its deep-water harbour — some of it illicit, with ties to piracy in the 18th century. Locals remain tethered to the tides, with a family-run fishery supplying restaurants, and paddleboarders gliding down the estuary.
But what really sets Falmouth apart is its brush with creativity, buoyed by the students enrolled at its two universities — one among the UK’s best for the arts. Indie theatre, music, comedy and art exhibitions fill small venues' listings, while the annual (and free) sea shanty and oyster festivals are firm fixtures on locals’ calendars.
What to do
Follow the South West Coast Path to explore multiple local highlights in one go. Start at the 16th-century Pendennis Castle and cross Gyllyngvase ('Gylly') and Swanpool Beaches, working your way across quiet coves, mossy forest, farmland and sweeping valleys to Helford Passage (a moderate route of around seven miles, with shorter options available). Look out for common and bottlenose dolphins, as well as harbour porpoises, often spotted here along with the occasional common seal or minke whale. The path marks its 50th anniversary this year; to join the festivities, buy a celebratory ‘passport’ online and get it stamped at stops along the way. For full coastal immersion, and to get involved with the locals' favourite watersport, a paddleboarding excursion is a must. Check in with the friendly folk at Blü Paddle Co on Gylly Beach for equipment hire or longer guided tours.
Also celebrating its 20th birthday is the National Maritime Museum, where visitors can learn about the stories and science of the sea. Its new exhibition, titled Pirates, looks at the gory details of Cornish smuggling, while the wider museum highlights some of the county's most famous maritime events — like the Robertson family's stranger-than-fiction survival tale abroad yacht tender Ednamair, exhibited in the main hall. History enthusiasts can also join a walking tour with Falmouth Uncovered, which zeroes in further on the darker sides of Falmouth's past.
Where to eat
Drooling at the view is part of the package at the waterfront Star & Garter, but don’t let it distract from the food. The gastropub-cum-chophouse serves up local produce cooked over wood and flame — think grilled pollock in saffron broth with smoked mash and parmesan-covered greens. There's stylish accommodation here, too.
Cool, contemporary IndiDog (named after the friendly owners' beloved Hungarian visla) enjoys sweeping harbour views, too, with a lively vibe amped up by regular music performances. The seafood-centred menu is locally sourced, with Asian twists on traditional favourites.
Don’t miss
A few miles south west of Falmouth lies Trebah, a 26-acre subtropical valley with exotic gardens. Highlights include a giant gunnera patch, rhododendron and bamboo groves, all tucked beneath a lofty canopy of jungle-like tree ferns and hardy palms. A spring-fed stream cascades down to a private beach on the Helford River, where Second World War remains offer a stark reminder of Cornwall’s role in the 1944 D-Day landings.
We like
The Seaweed Institute marries community, nature and food in an endeavour solely focused on — you guessed it — seaweed. It connects people with Falmouth’s oceanic surroundings through day-long workshops spent foraging, cooking and craft-making using various types of the marine algae, interspersed with discussions on its place in Cornish culture.
Where to stay
Situated in a quiet, leafy part of town is Merchants Manor, a shipping merchant’s home turned handsome, adults-only boutique hotel, complete with a three AA rosette restaurant, Rastella. Rooms are bright, chic and hung with local art — or splurge on a luxury garden cabin with private whirlpool bath. From £240 per night B&B.
With a prominent harbour position, the Greenbank Hotel is a stalwart of Falmouth's hospitality scene, having hosted guests since 1785; The Wind in the Willows author Kenneth Grahame wrote part of the classic tale here. The Water's Edge is its two-AA Rosette restaurant, which hosts exquisite Taste of Cornwall tasting menus. Rooms are classic and marine-themed, and suites feature freestanding baths. From £179 per night B&B.
