Find the secret side of the Algarve in this little-known nature town

Tavira’s character has been shaped by centuries of change, its fortunes shifting with the labyrinth of barrier islands and salt marshes that surround it. Just 15 miles from the Spanish border, the compact city still bears the imprint of its heyday, a blend of Portuguese and Moorish influences reflecting its status as a once-prized port. All of which makes it a hugely underrated Algarve destination. Straddling the Gilão River, clusters of traditional whitewashed buildings are punctuated by tesoura (‘scissor’) rooftops and the steeples of renaissance churches. Beyond the city, Ria Formosa Natural Park, a rich mosaic of islands, mudflats and saltpans, extends for over 35 miles along the Algarve coast, providing sanctuary for more than 200 bird species and creating a natural playground for travellers.

Head out to discover Ilha de Tavira, one of the Ria Formosa’s barrier islands. A 20-minute ferry ride from the centre, the seven-mile ribbon of silky white sand — fringed with dunes cloaked in sea holly and marram grass — separates the sheltered estuary from the wild Atlantic. Keep walking west for around an hour to reach secluded Praia do Barril beach, where you’ll find one of the region’s most curious sights: the Cemitério das Âncoras. Here, hundreds of rusted anchors stand solemnly like sentinels in the dunes. They were laid to rest in 1966 when the tuna fishing industry collapsed, with various 19th-century fisher’s huts now home to relaxed restaurants offering fresh seafood steps from the wash.

On the city’s outskirts, you’ll find Tavira’s salt pans, where sal de Tavira is still hand-harvested. You can explore its man-made network of shimmering, pink-hued pools under your own steam by renting wheels from Abílio Bikes. Set off along the Ecovia do Litoral, a 132-mile cycle path that follows a green corridor along the coast. If possible, organise your ride for early morning or sunset, keeping an eye out for black-winged stilts and dusky-pink flamingos wading in the mineral-rich waters. You’ll trundle towards Cabanas de Tavira, a small fishing village that makes a great jumping-off point for explorations of the Ria Formosa. Solar Moves operates birdwatching tours on sun-powered boats from the beach — though it’ll happily organise pick-ups from its site back in Tavira. Expect to spot an array of fauna, including spoonbills and oystercatchers foraging in the seagrass meadows, which are also home to endangered long- and short-snouted seahorses. Alternatively, explore the park on horseback with Tavira Equestrian Tourism (taviraequestriantourism.com), riding through coastal pine forest and farmland scented with orange blossom.

Back in Tavira, pause for a glass of crisp Algarve white on the cobblestoned terrace of Terraze before crossing the city’s defining landmark, the seven-arched Ponte Romana, and continuing to the atmospheric hilltop ruins of Castelo de Tavira. Originally an 11th-century Moorish fortification, the castle now encloses a peaceful courtyard garden, where poppies, cosmos and bougainvillea add bursts of colour.

Evenings are best spent in cosy tascas (casual restaurants) with traditional dishes like cataplana — a hearty seafood stew with potatoes. For locally sourced ingredients and fresh estuary seafood, don’t miss Mirsal. The restaurant is inside the Palácio de Tavira hotel, a former 19th-century noble residence where interiors inspired by the colours of the local landscape complement a menu that moves with the seasons. Citrussy Ria Formosa oysters and melt-in-the-mouth scallops are just some of the highlights.