This is India's most laid-back city—here's how you can visit

On the banks of the Mandovi river estuary — and still known to many by its English name, Panjim — Goa’s regional capital dates to around the 11th century. Yet its defining period was four centuries of Portuguese rule, which only ended in 1961 and whose influence endures. Despite being the major hub for India’s palm-fringed southwestern sunshine state, Panaji remains walkable and unhurried, which has encouraged a wave of younger Indians to relocate here in recent years, bringing new energy to the city’s art, music and food scenes. Following the opening of a second international airport (Manohar) in December 2022, it’s also easier to visit than ever.

Exploring the jumble of streets in the Fontainhas district — Panaji’s ‘Latin Quarter’ — is an activity in itself. Peeling off from Rua 31 de Janeiro, the area is lined with brightly painted houses and vibrant street art. Fuel up on pastéis de nata (Portuguese custard tarts) at Goan-Portuguese Bakery Confeitaria 31 De Janeiro, in operation since 1930, and check out the Indian contemporary art at Gitanjali Gallery.

The Fontainhas area is also where you’ll find Panaji’s best artisan and locally owned shops. The Good Life Goa, a second-floor emporium beside the Ourem river, has a huge selection of clothes, homeware and art, all handmade in India. Pioneering Goa-born fashion line No Nasties’ shop is worth seeking out for its colourful 100%-organic cotton clothing.

Heading west from the Fontainhas district, the towering Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception is a majestic spectacle. Its bright white exterior, stacked like layers of an elaborate wedding cake, is especially striking when lit up at night. Five minutes’ walk from here, on the banks of the Mandovi river, the Goa State Museum is an essential visit for understanding the state’s dual-culture and complex backstory. Located in the former Secretariat building, it charts history via carvings, paintings and other objects.

More of Goa’s Portuguese heritage can be found nearby at the Galeria Azulejos de Goa, which displays an extensive selection of hand-painted Portuguese tiles in one of Panaji’s heritage homes. While it functions as a shop, it’s just as interesting for a snoop. Just down the road is Mario Gallery, dedicated to one of India’s most-loved cartoonists, Mario Miranda, who lived in Goa for much of his life. Some of his best works are on display here, with original pieces and prints available to buy.

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To the south of Fontainhas, at the top of a hill in the central neighbourhood of Altinho, is Sunaparanta Goa Centre for the Arts. In its palm-fringed courtyard, Cafe Bodega is a restful spot for everything from shakshuka breakfasts to miso chicken lunches — or simply drop by for cake. While in the area, climb the neighbouring hill to admire the city’s most impressive Hindu shrine, the Maruti Temple. Dedicated to the monkey god Hanuman, the towering burnt-orange structure offers sweeping views of the city below.

For an Indian meal, seek out a fish thali — a selection of traditional dishes served on a platter. Kokni Kanteen, a relaxed and low-lit restaurant near Panaji’s historic Mahalaxmi Temple, serves an excellent example featuring fried fish and two fish curries.

Goa’s relaxed alcohol laws have spawned a lively bar scene. Come evening, return to Fontainhas for a drink at Joseph’s — a longstanding hole-in-the-wall that serves the local liquor feni, made from coconuts or cashews. A few doors down, Antonio 31 offers creative cocktails with Goan-style small plates such as crispy aubergine with roasted lentils. Close to the Maruti Temple, a 15-minute walk away, there’s also the innovative For The Record Vinyl Bar.

Panaji’s estuarine surroundings are a good antidote to a big night out; head for the mangroves and paddy fields of the Chorão and Divar inland islands, or stroll the beaches at Candolim or Miramar. The latter is just a 10-minute drive from Panaji; en route, stop for snacks at Padaria Prazeres, easily spotted thanks to its canary-yellow facade.