What it’s like to stay in a traditional hanok hotel in the heart of Seoul

What we love 

➤ History meets modernity: These are historic houses in Bukchon Hanok Village in central Seoul that have been restored and decorated with work by contemporary international and Korean designers. 

➤ Exclusivity: During the day, this part of Bukchon is one of the busiest in the city, but at night tourists aren’t allowed in and you have it to yourself as a temporary “resident.” 

Things to consider 

➤ Limited availability: There are just six houses with capacity ranging from two to six people. 

➤ Few on-property amenities: These are houses, so there are no gyms, nighttime desk agent, or lobbies to hang out in. 

Backstory: I can’t remember the last time, if ever, I waded through a sea of selfie-taking tourists with glee. With gritted teeth is more like it. 

But on a crisp fall afternoon I navigated the crush of tourists in the picturesque village of Bukchon while repressing a smile. In a couple hours, all these people would be politely but forcibly shuffled out. Along with just a handful of other visitors, I would have some of the most beautiful blocks of historic houses in the world virtually to myself. That’s because I was a guest of Nostalgia Hanok Hotel and was exempt from a new rule that boots non-guests from Bukchon in the evening.

Nostalgia Hanok Hotel is a collection of recently restored traditional houses sandwiched between two of Seoul’s signature palace parks, in what was once the neighborhood of choice for the aristocracy. Seoul is a city that hums with modernity, from food and architecture to fashion and beauty, so I knew I wanted to find something that broke a bit from that and spoke to its past. I also wanted a bit of quiet in this megacity. These houses were a chic oasis and also convenient for walking around to the many nearby sights. 

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First impressions: Our first impression was partially colored by the obvious looks of envy from tourists milling about on the street as we entered our private house. It’s hard not to feel special when that’s your mindset as you step over the threshold. But the houses themselves are a little fantasy where impeccable restoration meets restrained modern decor. Soft light trickles through every window, and the design details had us immediately asking the concierge about where we could buy certain items. The check-in process was relatively efficient. Because the village is on a hillside, the hotel brings your bags up for you. We were early so left our bags and explored the neighborhood. At check-in time we had our welcome drink of house makgeolli, picked up our keys, and walked to the house where our bags had already been deposited. 

Essential information: The check-in and check-out are done out of a welcome center in a slick retail space on a street outside the village. Check-in is at 3 p.m. and check-out at 11 a.m. The deposit for incidentals was in cash and there was complimentary Wi-Fi. Two of the houses, Blue Jae and Double Jae, have a no-children policy. Each hanok comes with one parking space. 

My room: I stayed in two different houses, partially because limited availability meant I couldn’t find any with consecutive nights, but also because I wanted to try more than one house. The first night we stayed in Slow Jae, which has two bedrooms, a living room, a pottery studio, and a kitchen all wrapped around a courtyard. Pottery studio?! Yes, staying here includes a pottery making session, and the bowl I made still sits on my dining room mantel. The second night we stayed in Nook Jae, a one bedroom that also came with a foot therapy spa. Everything was exceptionally clean and filled with exquisite decorative objects. When I talked to the hotel staff about the design, they told me that “throughout Nook Jae, carefully chosen craft pieces and artworks are placed to evoke a sense of ‘delightful discovery.'” 

Dining and drinking: The hotel does offer a breakfast service, but because there are so many incredible cafes and bakeries in the surrounding area we didn’t take them up on it. We also skipped their extra makgeolli (a milky Korean spirit) experience. 

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Amenities: All of the houses have full kitchens, but each typically has its own special amenity, be it a foot bath, Jacuzzi, pottery studio, or something else. Oh, and the floors are heated.

Not-to-miss: Stepping outside your house for a nighttime or early morning stroll. Non-residents aren’t allowed before 10 a.m. or after 5 p.m., so you’ll be able to savor this delightful neighborhood without any competition. 

Sustainability: The hotel has eliminated single-use disposable amenities in the hanoks and keeps its gardens eco-friendly by minimizing or avoiding chemical pesticides and herbicides. 

What's nearby: Nostalgia is an ideal home base for exploring one of Seoul’s most sight-rich areas. Within a short walk are the Changdeokgung Palace, the National Folk Museum, the Seoul Museum of Art, Gyeongbokgung Palace, and the Lee Kun-Hee Museum. The surrounding area is also brimming with some of the city’s buzziest eateries, so you won’t need to go far, but buses run frequently at the base of the village if you do decide to venture elsewhere.

Who I'd recommend it to: My stay was one of the highlights of a highlight-heavy trip. It hit all the right notes for me, from historic preservation to exceptional contemporary design and lots of little memorable details like the pottery class. I would highly recommend this hotel to anybody visiting Seoul, especially couples or friend groups that appreciate these kinds of subtle spaces. But I’d probably stay elsewhere if you prefer something with more amenities and liveliness. 

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