Dracula-hunting and bear hides—inside the Romanian region that has it all

Transylvania’s name derives from a Latin term meaning ‘beyond the forest’, but it’s the destination’s gothic links most people have a hard time looking past. Over 125 years after Bram Stoker’s Dracula was first published, this region in central Romania still haunts the imagination as the homeland of the world’s most famous vampire. There are certainly enough impervious woods and forbidding fortresses to persuade the visitor that the whispers might be true; this is a mysterious land, where legends come alive and predators stalk in the darkness.

But come, and you’ll soon realise the medieval citadels in the shadow of the Carpathian Mountains are more fairytale than horror story. There’s a new wave of cafes, craft shops and galleries, while cultural projects are breathing life back into rural settlements. They’re home to a mix of Romanians, Roma, Hungarians and Saxons, and some preserve customs that are much as they have been since the Middle Ages.

There are other changes afoot, too. An airport in the local hub of Brașov opened in 2023, making the region more accessible to international travellers. A thrice-weekly direct flight from London soon followed. So, as Count Dracula famously said to his guests, enter freely. With its ancient culture and newfound energy, Transylvania is sure to draw anyone under its spell.

Day 1: Castles & coppersmiths

Morning
In Brașov, a medieval city with red-tiled roofs and gothic spires, hire a car and head out early to beat the tour buses to 14th-century Bran Castle, 20 miles south. Many believe this fortress, with its bulky turrets and mountain perch, was the real-life inspiration for Castle Dracula. But while Vlad Țepeș — the 15th-century Wallachian prince on whom the bloodthirsty count was based — might have visited once, Stoker never set foot in Transylvania at all. You can’t blame the souvenir-sellers outside the castle for peddling its credentials, but displays inside separate fiction from fact. Fifteen minutes south is Rașnov Fortress, a medieval hilltop citadel that has even better views of the forest-clad Carpathians.

Afternoon
Return to Brașov for a lunch of beef cheek with black truffles at Sub Tâmpa. Afterwards, take a look at the red-capped clock tower of the Black Church. The country’s largest gothic church, it earned its name from the scorch marks left by a fire that ravaged the town in 1689. Inside are medieval murals and artefacts, including a 4,000-pipe organ and a collection of Ottoman rugs. Come mid-afternoon, hit the road again. The drive to Sighișoara takes less than two hours, but if you don’t mind a detour, take the route via the village of Brateiu, which adds an hour to the trip. It’s home to a community of Căldărari coppersmiths — Roma artisans whose handicrafts are displayed at stalls by the roadside.

Evening
Twilight is an atmospheric time in which to arrive at UNESCO-listed Sighișoara, the citadel believed to be the birthplace of Vlad Țepeș, with its cloud-piercing turrets cutting an ominous silhouette against the rapidly blackening sky. Check into Casa Georgius Krauss, a former nobleman’s residence that’s been turned into a boutique hotel. During the renovations, 17th-century Saxon frescoes and painted ceilings were discovered, which have since been restored and are now preserved in the nine opulent guest rooms. Transylvanian dishes such as pork marinated in țuică (a local plum brandy) are served at the restaurant, as well as wines sourced from various local producers.

Day 2: Bike rides & bear hides

Morning
Consider skipping the kitsch, vampire-themed attractions to sink your teeth into some of Sighișoara’s more authentic highlights. Start with a tour of the Clock Tower and History Museum of Sighișoara to learn about the Saxon craft guilds that once controlled the town. Then refuel at any of the colourful cafes lining Piaţa Cetăţii (‘Citadel Square’) — you’ll need a strong dose of caffeine for the leg-busting climb up the 176-step Scholar’s Stairway. It’s worth the walk to check out the Church on the Hill, Sighișoara’s triple-nave cathedral. First built in the 13th century, it won a prize at the 2024 European Heritage Awards for the restoration of its ancient, faded frescoes and dazzling altarpieces.

Afternoon
A 30-minute drive from Sighișoara is Bike Check Inn. Hire an e-bike and breeze along country lanes to Viscri, a Saxon village dating to the 12th century. This was a thriving community for 800 years until a mass exodus in 1989 — prompted by the fall of communist leader Nicolae Ceauşescu’s regime — threatened to consign its way of life to history. Foundations like the Mihai Eminescu Trust are now working to keep Viscri’s heritage alive through various initiatives. It helps that the villagers have British royalty championing their cause: drop by a crafts shop managed by the King’s Foundation, which stocks jams, artisanal cheeses and more.

Evening
Head back to Brașov for sundown, when the city’s sleepy squares transform into hubs with live music and locals downing glasses of palincă. Brown bears are known to enter the town, but these sightings are, thankfully, rare. If you’re keen to see one, it’s best to head to the surrounding forest under the supervision of seasoned guides, like those from tour operator Rolandia. If you’re visiting between February and November, join them for a custom dusk tour to an observation hide. With over 6,000 bears in Romania — the biggest population in Europe outside of Russia — there’s a high probability that you’ll soon spot the continent’s largest predators, as well as boars, foxes, deer and more.

Three more Saxon Villages to visit

1. Biertan
Eight centuries ago, the Saxons were invited to settle in Transylvania by Hungary’s King Géza II, who sought their help in defending his territory against Tatar and Turkish invasions. Predominantly Lutheran Christians, they built their villages around heavily fortified churches — and the one in the village of Biertan, the most important religious centre of the Transylvanian Saxons for almost three centuries, is among the best in the region. Protected by three concentric walls, sturdy turrets and imposing battlements, the building is part of a UNESCO-listed group of fortified churches; spot it high on its own hilltop perch, right in the middle of the village.

2. Mălâncrav
Situated in a curve of the Mălâncrav valley is a village that’s home to over 100 Transylvanian Saxons — the largest ethnic German community left in the region. They live alongside their Roma and Romanian neighbours in pastel-coloured houses bleached by the sun. Through restoration and cultural preservation projects, the Mihai Eminescu Trust has helped turn Mălâncrav village into a living museum, where craftspeople, from brickmakers to wickerworkers, uphold their traditions, and horse-drawn carts clip-clop along dusty roads. Stay in Apafi Manor, a guesthouse run by the Trust that was formerly the family home of the village rulers.

3. Saschiz
The Târnava Mare area in southeastern Transylvania is known for its rolling pastureland, wildflower meadows and bucolic scenes of preindustrial agricultural life. All this makes the local village of Saschiz a picturesque spot for a picnic. Stock up on supplies at Pivniţa Bunicii (‘Grandma’s Cellar’), a Saxon-style shop whose artisanal jams, juices and chutneys are made using locally sourced produce from small-scale organic farms. The village is also known for its traditional cobalt-blue ceramics, made here since the 18th century. Be sure to visit the Saschiz Pottery Workshop, for hands-on wheel classes with local craftspeople.