Scotland's 'Misty Isle' is perfect for a winter road trip—here's why

Just off the coast of the Highlands, Skye is the largest of the Inner Hebrides and by far the most visited. A bridge connects the mainland to the island, leading to some of Scotland’s most dramatic scenery: the jagged peaks of the Cuillin mountains, the cliffs and emerald valleys of the Trotternish peninsula and the waterfalls of the Fairy Pools.

The island’s name is thought to come from the Old Norse ‘sky-a’, meaning ‘cloud island’ — a nod to the mist that hovers near-perpetually. Skye’s mountains are the first thing each Atlantic squall encounters as it charges into the UK, and it rains so often here (on more days than not) that water seems to cling to the landscape. But for those keen to find adventure, some of Scotland’s most rewarding hikes await, along with a range of water-based activities including kayaking and coasteering. Warm up afterwards with the spoils of the island’s world-famous whisky distilleries and plenty of fresh seafood.

Day 1: Towering rocks & seafood feasts

Morning
Trotternish is Skye’s northernmost peninsula and home to its star attractions. Start in Portree, the island capital, and drive 15 minutes north to the Old Man of Storr. The 90-minute return walk up to this thick finger of volcanic basalt rock is Skye’s most popular, offering sweeping views across the glassy waters of Loch Leathan and the Sound of Raasay. Drive 10 minutes further north to Lealt Falls, one of Skye’s many dramatic waterfalls. From here, it’s 10 minutes north to Kilt Rock, where you’ll peer along the cliffs at a 295ft-high wall of fluted rock, said to resemble the pleats of a kilt and once used as a navigational aid by sailors. Stop for lunch here — a fresh sourdough sandwich picked up earlier from Birch in Portree.

Afternoon
The Quiraing landscape was forged during an intense period of volcanic activity and subsequent immense landslip. This left behind towering crags, a scattering of rocky stacks with names like the Prison and the Needle, and a central punchbowl now filled with emerald grass. The best way to take it all in is from the full loop walk, which takes around two hours. It’s not safe if visibility is poor, though — instead, hike for 10 minutes up towards the vast basalt pyramid of the Prison and return. Your final stop en route to Portree is the Fairy Glen, hidden in the hills above the village of Uig. Formed by a series of smaller landslides, it’s often called a ‘mini Quiraing’ but is safer and easier to visit in poor weather, requiring far less hiking and around an hour to explore.

Evening
Skye isn’t famed for its nightlife, but Portree can still get quite lively after dark. On the harbourfront, book a table at Scorrybreac restaurant for Skye-landed seafood including oysters, lobster and halibut, then head upstairs for cocktails with local flavour such as the Buckthorn Sour or House Martini made with woodruff-infused gin. A mile or so south from the town centre you’ll find Las, the island’s theatre and cinema, which hosts a range of events including live music and stand-up comedy from mainly Scottish artists. It’s also worth heading to the village of Carbost and visiting The Old Inn, which has regular live music nights where residents let their hair down.

Day 2: Wild swims & whisky tours

Morning
Head to the Fairy Pools, south of Portree, for a wild swim. These rock-strewn pools are fed by the tiered waterfalls of Allt Coire a’ Mhadaidh, meaning Burn of the Dog. Pack a towel and follow the path alongside the burn (stream) up the hill until you find a spot you fancy. The higher you go, the thinner the crowds. One of the reasons it’s so popular here is the incredible Black Cuillin mountain range that rears up behind the waters. The scenery gets even more staggering around the tiny settlement of Sligachan, a 25-minute drive north east and an easy spot to pull in and enjoy the sort of view you’d normally expect to hike hours for. Stand atop the stone bridge and feel yourself surrounded by the Black Cuillin’s dark, brooding peaks.

Afternoon
Talisker whisky is the island’s best-known export and has a slick visitor centre where you can easily spend an afternoon. First, though, make time for lunch at The Three Chimneys at Talisker, set west of Sligachan right next to the whitewashed distillery and with a view over Loch Harport. Get stuck in to island prawns and local fish or order the seafood platter and settle in for a feast. Afterwards, take a one-hour guided tour of the distillery to discover how Scotch whisky is made, taking in the wooden mash tuns and unique copper stills that give Talisker its smoky flavour. Save time to enjoy a tasting of three different drams or choose to take them home if you’re driving.

Evening
The pastel-coloured harbourfront houses of Portree are best seen from the water, so head out on a two-hour evening boat tour with Seaflower Skye. After viewing the harbour, you’ll take in the Storr and Cuillin from a unique angle — you might even spot deer on the hills. You’ll be back in the harbour by dinnertime; The Lower Deck seafood restaurant serves local fish and chips with homemade tartare sauce. If it’s a clear night, make time for some stargazing — there’s very little light pollution here, so you can even see the Milky Way. The Camas na Sgianadin car park, around an hour’s drive from Portree, is a Dark Sky Discovery Site you can visit independently.

Five outdoor activities to try

Loch cruising: Loch Coruisk is known for its beauty, with glassy waters reflecting toothy peaks and depths said to conceal a supernatural water horse, the kelpie. Hiking to this inland freshwater lake is an undertaking — seven miles each way from Sligachan — so instead catch a ride on the Bella Jane boat, which departs from Elgol village. bellajane.co.uk

Foraging: If you know what you’re looking for, Skye’s larder is remarkably well stocked with edible plants, fungi and shellfish. Don’t know your sorrel from your samphire? Head out with Mitch, aka Skye Ghillie, and learn how to identify wild foods and cook up a seasonal feast. skyeghillie.com

Kayaking: A kayak slips by largely unnoticed, making this a great way to get up-close views of wildlife. Head out with South Skye Sea Kayak for a full-day tour and you’ll paddle along Skye’s southern coast, looking for seabirds, otters and dolphins along the way. southskyeseakayak.co.uk

Coasteering: Jump, climb and swim your way along Skye’s rugged shoreline on a coasteering adventure. Weather and tides dictate the specifics, but expect to be leaping from the clifftops wearing a wetsuit and a grin. skyeadventure.com

Wellness walking: Join Louise Kennedy for a guided walk along Skye’s coast or through its ancient forests, pausing to meditate, practise yoga or simply breathe it all in. Some of the walks include a sauna and a sea swim, too. tursaskye.com