Christmas in Lucerne: 5 reasons to plan a festive city break

As the story goes, an angel showed eighth-century Benedictine monks where they should build Lucerne’s first chapel, a beam of light shining from his hands to illuminate the spot. It’s a fitting tale for the most festive of cities. Snuggling on the shores of its icy, glass-blue lake and peering up at the snow-blanketed Alps, the Swiss city of Lucerne looks straight out of a Christmas card when the winter months arrive. Visit in December for the sparkle of festive markets, al fresco ice skating, snowy adventures by day or starlit night, and a feast of fondue and chocolate. Here are five ways to get into the spirit of the season. 

1. Explore creative Christmas markets

Full of twinkly trees and festive cheer, Lucerne’s December Christmas markets are up there with Switzerland’s most beautiful. The big one is on Franziskanerplatz, with its photogenic line-up of pastel-painted houses, fountain and Franciscan church of St Mary. During advent, the square fills with 70 glowing timber chalets, selling everything from beautifully carved figurines to biscuits and Alpine cheese. An immense Christmas wreath dazzles with fairy lights, baubles and 13ft-high candles, illuminating the glühwein-sipping crowds, carollers and children riding the carousel.

Then, swing over to Rudolfs Weihnacht at Inseli-Park for one-of-a-kind gifts, bubbling fondue and endless entertainment — from fire shows to stilt walkers and face-painting. Santa makes regular appearances here, too. Those keen to keep the festivities firing will find other markets dotted all over the city, whether you’re seeking out traditional handicrafts at the Weinmarkt or browsing the towering Christmas trees for sale on the lakefront promenade.

2. Sample cheese and chocolate specialities

When cold mist creeps across the lake and the snow begins to fall, there’s only one thing for it: fondue. But you don’t need to head into the Alps to find an authentic cheese-based treat — Lucerne’s city centre has plenty of cosy restaurants where you can dip your fork into a bubbling pot of gooey cheese. Restaurant Moosmatt’s wood panelled Fonduestübli fits the bill perfectly. Here you can huddle over a pot of classic fondue, varieties flavoured with truffle, horseradish and chilli — or go for the ‘stinker’, complete with garlic, onions and leek. 

A step south of the city, Seehotel Kastanienbaum is another firm local favourite for fondue, with its rustic open fire and picturesque lake views. Back in town, under the guise of Christmas shopping, you can embark on a chocolate quest. Head to Max Chocolatier for winter truffles in flavours like pistachio-marzipan and port-caramel (they also run chocolate tasting and making workshops), pop into Bachmann Bakery for sweet seasonal specialities and end your day with the Swiss Chocolate Adventure at Lindt.

3. Experience exhilarating alpine adventures

Lucerne’s city centre is just a snowball-throw away from the mountains, making it an ideal base for active visitors. Daytrip to the 1,798m Mount Rigi, where top-of-the-world views reach over the lake to the Jungfrau Alps on crisp, cloudless days, and the fiery sunsets once inspired Turner’s paintbrush. Sledge, hike or snowshoe through a true winter wonderland, or relax with a scenic soak in the mineral-rich baths of Mario Botta-designed Mineralbad & Spa Rigi Kaltbad. On the opposite side of the lake, the views are equally stunning at the 2,128m Mount Pilatus. If you can, time your visit for the third weekend in November, when the lift station here hosts Europe's highest Christmas market.

To ramp up the thrills even further, take the 50-minute train ride from Lucerne to Engelberg (which translates to ‘Angel Mountain’). Here, you’ll encounter mountains soaring above 3,000m, impressive snow conditions and fantastic terrain for skiing and snowboarding.

4. See the winter light

Enchanting festivals and pre-Christian rituals light up winter in and around Lucerne. Most compelling is the Küssnachter Klausjagen, a 1000-year-old pagan tradition once believed to drive away demons and evil spirits. Every year on the 5th December at 8.15pm, a firecracker goes off, all lights are snuffed out and 30,000 spectators wait with bated breath. The cracking of sheep whips announces the arrival of 200 men wearing 2.5-metre-tall Iffelen, extraordinarily intricate paper hats that are lit from within by a candle, shaped like bishops’ mitres and shimmer like stained glass. They are followed by a parade featuring St Nicholas and his black-robed Schmutzli, brass bands, and men ringing giant cowbells and blowing cow horns. 

For an alternative experience, lean into the brightness of the new year at the Lilu Festival, which will be held from 11 to 21 January in 2024. From 6pm to 10pm daily, the ‘City of Lights’ comes into its own, with light installations dancing across the facades, churches, bridges and alleyways of the old town.

5. Enjoy the serenity of starry, silent nights

Lucerne’s snowy landscapes take on a whole new magic after dark, with pearly peaks aglow and star-speckled skies. And there are plenty of ways that you can embrace the night in Lucerne’s surrounds, from snowshoeing by full moon to sledding under the stars, stopping ruddy cheeked and breathless for a glass of glühwein or fondue. Perhaps most romantic of all, though, is the advent light trail in Gisikon, a half-hour train ride from Lucerne, where you can pad through the snow in quiet wonder by lantern light to a beautiful hand-carved nativity scene.