Sea lions, surf and the steepest street—discover the best of Dunedin, New Zealand

Surrounded by green hills and rugged coastlines home to albatrosses, penguins and seals, the South Island’s second-largest city is also one of New Zealand’s most distinctive. Roughly 225 miles south of the city of Christchurch, Dunedin sits in the Otago region on the wild southeastern coast. The area was populated by the Ngai Tahu Māori people before Scottish settlers founded the city in 1848 — dubbing it ‘Dùn Èideann’, the Scottish Gaelic name for Edinburgh.

Dunedin (‘Ōtepoti’ in Māori) grew quickly after gold was discovered in the region in the 1860s, and many of the Edwardian and Victorian constructions remain today — including the grand Victorian clocktower building at Otago University and the city’s centrepiece Edwardian baroque-style railway station, which is said to be one of New Zealand’s most-photographed buildings. While its architecture draws the eye, it’s Dunedin’s outdoor adventures that truly entice travellers to this compact, laid-back city. From wildlife spotting and harbourside cycle rides to coastal walks and scenic train journeys, these six unmissable experiences showcase the best of Dunedin.

1. Spot rare and endangered wildlife

Dunedin is known as New Zealand’s wildlife capital, thanks to the many endangered species that reside along the Otago Peninsula. Stretching 14 miles from the city out into the Pacific Ocean — forming the eastern edge of Otago Harbour — the peninsula is home to several rare native species, including the endangered hoiho (yellow-eyed penguin), Fiordland penguin and New Zealand sea lion. Royal albatrosses, fur seals and little blue penguins — the smallest species of penguin in the world — also call the peninsula home. Less than a 40-minute drive from the centre of Dunedin, at the tip of the peninsula, the Royal Albatross Centre is a place where travellers can come to admire these majestic birds up close — it’s the only mainland breeding colony of the northern royal albatross in the world.

Don’t miss: Explore the peninsula’s showpiece Larnach Castle — built in 1871, the gothic revival manor is New Zealand’s only historic castle. Walk through seven acres of exquisitely maintained gardens and climb the Historic Tower for 360-degree views.

2. Cycle around an idyllic natural harbour

Pedal past coastal scenery on the 20-mile Otago Harbour cycleway, which snakes around the water’s edge from Portobello to Port Chalmers. The mostly flat Te Aka Ōtākou (Otago Vine) route can be completed in around two hours, and cyclists can close the loop with a 10-minute port-to-port crossing on a bike ferry. Cycles and eBikes can be hired from local businesses such as Dunedin eBike Hire, iBike Hire and Bike House. Be sure to stop by the Harbour Mouth Molars; sculptures resembling a giant set of teeth that line the shore of Kitchener Street Park. New Zealand artist Regan Gentry took inspiration from the University of Otago School of Dentistry and Otago Peninsula’s volcanic origins to create the waterfront chompers.

Don’t miss: Drop into the iconic Emerson’s Brewery to try a local craft beer or enjoy a bite to eat — or take a tour of the brewery to see how the beer is created.

3. Hit the surf or stroll along the shore

Just a 10-minute drive south east of the city centre, the rolling waves of St Clair Beach beckon surfers year-round, while its sweeping golden sands invite long walks along the shore. Flanking the beach, the St Clair Esplanade is lined with cafes and restaurants serving a range of seasonal dishes — try the duck fat potato salad at Fugue for lunch and the Otago fish fillet at Tītī for dinner. At the tip of the esplanade with an impressive view of the beach, the historic St Clair Hot Salt Water Pool is a great spot for a swim or to watch the surfers in action. Stroll east to reach St Clair’s quiet neighbour, St Kilda Beach. Overlooked by grassy dunes, the soft sandy shore is popular for swimming and surfing.

Don’t miss: Head to the smooth sands of Smaills Beach, where fur seals and sea lions can often be spotted basking on the rocks and on the shore. A favourite with locals, the beach is a 10-minute drive from central Dunedin.

4. Walk a coastal trail to a hidden beach

See sheer sandstone cliffs and sculptural rock formations carved by Southern Ocean swells and salty winds at Dunedin’s Tunnel Beach. Roughly five miles south west of the city centre, visitors can follow the steep Tunnel Beach walking track for unparalleled views of the natural rock arch and the rugged coastline. At the end of the path, climb down a dark, hand-dug tunnel, which reveals access to the hidden beach below. The tunnel was carved in the 1870s for the private use of the Cargill family and was opened to the public in the 1980s. Only accessible two hours either side of low tide, the secluded Tunnel Beach has numerous rock pools and caves, as well as a waterfall.

Don’t miss: Visit the Toitū Otago Settlers Museum in the city centre to learn more about Dunedin’s history and its pioneers, including the region’s indigenous Māori and the following waves of settlers, among them the prominent Cargill family.

5. Take a scenic train ride

Otago’s most visually striking landscapes are revealed on an unforgettable rail journey through the Taieri Gorge. Carved by the Taieri River, the deep ravine can only be accessed by train on the Taieri Gorge Railway. Starting from Dunedin Railway Station, the train winds through windswept fields, hills and forests, across towering iron viaducts and through tunnels excavated by hand over 100 years ago. Upon reaching the small settlement of Pukerangi, north west of Dunedin, passengers can disembark to explore the peaceful local area, before making the return journey back through the gorge. The roundtrip excursion with live commentary takes around five hours.

Don’t miss: Shop for fresh fruit, vegetables, cheese, honey, flowers, coffee and more at the Otago Farmers Market every Saturday at Dunedin Railway Station.

6. Tackle the world’s steepest street

In Dunedin’s serene North East Valley, 2.2 miles north east of the city centre, Baldwin Street rises towards the sky at an astonishing 34.8% gradient — claiming the Guinness World Records title of the steepest street in the world. By all accounts, the 350-metre-long street was built on such a sharp incline due to a planning error in the early 1900s — the London-based developer drawing up plans for Dunedin failed to take into account the local terrain, and, as a result, some of the streets ended up on extremely steep hillsides. For many years, Baldwin Street hosted an annual ‘Jaffa Race’, where thousands of the red, hard-shelled chocolate sweets were raced down the hill for charity, allegedly reaching speeds of over 60mph. Nowadays, visitors can walk up the street to enjoy the satisfying view from the top.

Don’t miss: Drive or walk up to the Signal Hill Lookout (a short distance from Baldwin Street) for panoramic views of Dunedin — several mountain bike trails start from here, too.