A red train makes its way along Taiwan's stunning coastline. The cliffs are high and green, the ocean is calm and crystal blue. — Taiwan's well-connected and easily navigable rail service makes travelling the island easy.
Photograph by Jui-Chi Chan

TRAVEL

Coast down east Taiwan on this seven-day rail trip

Tour the mountainous national parks, historic villages, and dramatic landscapes of Taiwan's east coast.

BySJ Armstrong

November 4, 2022

6 min read

Taiwan’s eastern railway carries travellers into the tranquillity of the island’s isolated east, cleaving cleanly through mountainous and coastal country. The route south winds through cities and villages, along azure-blue shores and into sprawling farmlands, past the striking black cliffs of Qingshui. Within an hour, Taipei’s neon cascade of signs and skyscrapers will be long forgotten. Follow this seven-day itinerary to get a glimpse of Taiwan’s lesser-explored east.

Taiwan's dramatic coastal cliffs and turquoise seas in a picture of vivid contrast. — Taiwan's dramatic coastal cliffs and turquoise seas are a vivid contrast.
Photograph by Jingchen Lin via Getty Images

Days one to four: Taroko Gorge and Hualien

The best way to get to Hualien is via train from Taipei, the international hub and capital city. From the platform at Hualien, you’ll step out into the centre of small-city life. Shopkeepers dust down the pavements in front of their stores, working around families perched on plastic stools sipping bowls of noodles. Workers make small talk while they queue for fragrant, steaming stews. Hualien may not have Taipei’s skyscrapers, but its wide and bustling streets share the capital’s chaotic charm.

Hualien is a jumping-off point for travellers looking to explore the natural landscapes that define east Taiwan — most famously, the Taroko Gorge. Dedicate at least one or two days to Taroko, only an hour’s journey from Hualien station, starting with the Shakadang Trail to the river valley. Slicing through sheer rock and forest overhang, the Liwu River runs relentlessly through the park. Every trail, every road, weaves around the river, which leads travellers to the park’s best attractions. On this trail, you’ll walk through mountain passes, peeking over precipices and exploring the mist-laden cliffs of Taiwan’s central range.

Next, choose the trail that takes you to the Shrine of Eternal Spring. Built around a waterfall, cascading year-round into the ravine below, the shrine’s white archways stand in sharp contrast to the density of Taroko’s forests. Recuperate after your time on the trails in the secluded steams of the Wenshan hot springs, nestled within the national park.

The water that falls all year round from the mouth of Taroko Gorge's Shrine of Eternal Spring. — Hiking along the Liwu river, you'll see the water that falls all year round from the mouth of Taroko Gorge's Shrine of Eternal Spring.
Photograph by Goran Q via Getty Images

Days four to six: Taitung

Catching the train at Hualien station, you’ll continue south to the city of Taitung. The journey only takes two or three hours, depending on which of the regular services you choose. Nestle in for a voyage over the highlands that shadow the island’s east coast, soaring above the thick Dulan Forest and the black-sand shores at its fringes. When passing the town of Chenggong, keep your eyes peeled for the Sanxiantai Dragon, an undulating sea bridge leading out to the unblemished island of Sanxiantai. Once you arrive in Taitung, head to the night markets for a steaming soup with fresh noodles and beef that falls apart in the bowl. Alternatively, tuck into the local delicacy of marinated duck head crisp from the barbecue.

On your fifth day, travel from Taitung to the nearby village of Dulan in the Donghe township. Now an easy-going surf town with a young population and thriving arts scene, the modern village is also central to the island’s ancient heritage. It’s the home of the Amis people, an indigenous Taiwanese population who have lived in the area since roughly 1500 BC. If your itinerary allows, spend your Friday or Saturday night in the bar at Dulan’s Sintung Sugar Factory, which hosts markets and concerts on weekends.

A fluttering sea of long, golden-tipped grass stretches either side of nearby Mr Brown Avenue. The tranquil trail through southeast Taiwan’s rural backdrop winds towards the towering Central Mountain Range. Rent out a bicycle in Chihshang township and soar towards the distant hills, embracing the sense of isolation in Taiwan’s idyllic countryside.

The sun breaks through the spotted cloudy sky in a triad. Three beams shine on the Taiwanese farmlands, reflected in a still body of water. The scene is shadowy but light. — Spectacular landscapes line the Taiwanese coast, as dramatic in the farmlands as the mountains.
Photograph by Chen Cheng-Kuo

Day seven: Kenting

Situated on Taiwan’s southern tip is Kenting National Park. With white beaches, verdant forests and turquoise seas, the coast here feels similar to that of its southerly neighbours in the Philippines. To decompress at the end of a week of exploration, catch a motorbike ride down to Nanwan or Baisha beach, or tackle Taiwan’s best surfing spot, Jialeshui.

The winding railway is well worth seeing in its own right. You’ll pass through Duoliang, which has a multilevel station built into Pacific-facing cliffs. Time your trip for sunset, when your train windows will glow dramatically in the glorious gold of the evening sky.

Plan your trip

Direct flights are available from London Gatwick to Taipei. Avoid monsoon rains by travelling in autumn or spring. For more information on travelling to and around Taiwan, visit eng.taiwan.net.tw.

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